My return to surfing in Hawaii
June 3, 2021 |
Surfing
I arrived back in Hawaii in May 1960, under entirely different conditions, together with my friend, Raphael Soriano, the noted California architect, who was looking into the potential of erecting some of his beautiful steel houses on the Islands.
I was shocked at what I saw.
The developers had gotten their hooks into Waikiki, and the tract builders were spreading their litter, amoeba-like, over the lovely hills and dales of the southern coast.
At this rate, it is only a matter of time until the Islands are one continuous tract, I thought.
Later, I wrote some articles on planning for the Honolulu Advertiser.
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The beginner and the philosophy of surfing
April 28, 2021 |
Surfing
After I had established a regular program for my return to surfing, I found things entirely different from the few days spent with [German photographer] Hanns Hubmann.
For the first month, I was still pretty weak, but I was stimulated by the competition from Larry and George, who were getting better fast.
I learned again that paddling was half the battle and that to paddle properly, you had to have the board at just the right angle, or it will not glide.
This is a few degrees above the horizontal.
If it is lower than this, the nose will go under, and if it is much higher, paddling is very difficult.