February 22
Barbacoa taco at La Perla
Many taquerias feature barbacoa the extensively steamed goat or mutton that probably evolved from the same antecedents as American barbecue as a weekend special only, selling big hunks of meat in sauce as tacos, other antojitos, or in bulk to be eaten with rice and beans. The South Bronx’s La Perla offers it all week long. The $3 taco features pulled goat tucked in a pair of tortillas, Pueblan style, with chopped onions and fresh cilantro, with taco guac (avocados and tomatillos, the latter for freshness and flow) sluiced on the top. The finely chopped meat is way-flavorful, almost grassy tasting, and the guac adds a tart edge. Ramp up the heat with the accompanying red or green salsa (in this case, the red is hotter).