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When people talk about the way New York has changed, they re usually leaving out neighborhoods like Whitestone, a far-flung enclave that often seems content to let time pass on by. Is it any wonder that one of the city s very best bagel emporiums thrives here? Serving the neighborhood since 1980, Utopia Bagels has a modern vibe, but back behind the counter, where it matters, everything here is done the old way, the correct way, from a longer ferment than most New York bagel makers, to the oven on premises, a remarkable 1940s relic. What you get: correctly-sized, hand-rolled bagels, crackling between your fingers like a pond at spring thaw. A rare feat, Utopia consistently knocks it out of the park with their unseededs plain, egg, and cinnamon raisin in particular. Service will range from mildly distracted to downright dismissive, but you re not here to make friends you re here for some of the last truly great bagels to be found in the five boroughs.
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