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Alison Meuse/NPR toggle caption Alison Meuse/NPR Bars are thriving in the Old City of Damascus. In recent years, the neighborhood withstood attacks from rebel-held suburbs. Alison Meuse/NPR The story has been done before: A Western journalist visits the Old City, checks in at a swinging bar and churns out a dispatch about Syrians partying as the war rages on. At this moment, the world s attention is on the showdown in Aleppo. But after a string of sleepless nights preparing for a trip this week to Syria that appeared out of thin air, I was ready for a glass myself.

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