A toast to spring
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It got a little warmer this week. A few brave flowers are out and the birds are singing when they’re not buffeted by the breeze. So my thoughts have turned to springlike wines.
Suddenly I want whites with the scent of flowers – white blossom, honeysuckle, acacia – and a crisper flavour. I want them to taste of super-fresh, crunchy or tangy fruits such as apples, pears, lemons and limes, and they must be unoaked and young with vibrant acidity.
This might seem premature, but there’s nothing wrong with looking forward to more springy drinking, now March is not far away. In short, I’m sloughing off winter by means of what I pour in my glass. Picpoul de pinet appeals especially, not only because its style fits my idea of springtime wines, but also because it reminds me of summer holidays in the south of France.