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, the 35-year-old Virginia-born chef of Chinese descent opens up about his decision to manage a vegan restaurant, the difficulties that the Asian American and Pacific Islander community has had to face in recent months, how food can become the solution to at least part of the problem and what he wishes diners would do to help those in need.
On the need for more veggie-forward vegan restaurants
When running a restaurant, you are working almost 16 hours a day and the easiest thing to grab as a snack is a handful of charcuterie or a chicken leg or something of the sort. There just seemed something very wrong with the system that we created and are part of, so I wanted to explore what food could be made vegan in the realm of Chinese [cuisine] because I have always wanted to open a Chinese restaurant.
ILLUSTRATION: YENWEI LIU/HUFFPOST; PHOTO: RASHIID COLEMAN
Elijah Milligan is all about baby steps. After more than 15 years in the restaurant business, the chef is happy to note that the changes he’s been fighting for are finally taking hold across the industry. Much of that is due to what he calls his “baby,” Cooking for the Culture, a culinary network devoted to connecting and helping Black chefs all around the country. The project has made headlines through a series of pop-up dinners helmed by minority cooks but the effort goes much deeper than that. In this Voices in Food story, the professional chef tells Anna Rahmanan about the struggles he’s had to overcome, how COVID-19 and the Black Lives Matter movement have positively affected the gastronomy world and what dining will likely look like in the near future.
ILLUSTRATION: YENWEI LIU/HUFFPOST; PHOTO: COURTESY OF SUNG KIM
Sung Kim is the founder and CEO of Chick-N-Bap, a Korean-inspired eatery with five locations across a variety of college campuses in upstate New York. Given that his company’s business model almost entirely relies on campus presence, Kim’s outlook on the effects of COVID-19 is a multifaceted one. Chick-N-Bap’s ability to stay open, after all, doesn’t solely rely on a state’s pandemic-related guidelines concerning restaurants but on the various schools’ modus operandi as well: If there aren’t any students on campus to purchase the food, it doesn’t matter much whether the government allows Kim’s locations to stay open. In this Voices in Food story, 27-year-old Kim tells Anna Rahmanan about having to play defense to stay open in 2020, how a Biden presidency may shift the future and how mom and pop restaurants might fare moving forward.
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