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5 best things our food critic ate this week

There s a place for Cinnabon, but I felt like we could do something different, he said. And how. His version ($3.50) is both restrained thanks to a disciplined approach to sweetness and over the top, because they enlist the same laminated dough used to make the bakery s excellent croissants. Mooney s reasoning is simple. Rather than killing ourselves making a bunch of doughs, we re building a great line of products with our laminated dough, he said. Smart. That butter-laden dough, sprinkled with brown sugar and cinnamon, is wound into fist-sized, seashell-like spirals, and then the oven s transformative powers get to work, fashioning crinkly, delicately crispy exteriors, and soft, honeycomb interiors. The finishing flourish is a judiciously applied vanilla glaze.

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