The way ahead is very steep and narrow and to call this ridge a road is an exaggeration. Without four-wheel drive and above-average ground clearance, you're on a highway to nowhere here on the spectacular Via del Sale in the Italian alps. The Via del Sale is an ancient route, which twists and turns among Piemont, France and Liguria. Tradesmen once used it to carry salt from the coast to the hinterland. No wonder that only serious off-road vehicles, mountain bikers or hikers venture to these part