tonight, three seats. tucked away in the back of another of jose s restaurants, jaleo. behind the guys making paella over open flame in the center of a crowded dining room. quiet, serene, a kind of magic. this is, granted, a far cry from the $1 shrimp cocktail and all you can eat buffets groaning under the weight of a thousand carbs. iberico ham and bean soup with black and roasted garlic. jamon, baby. the world s best. like from espain. nitro almond cup, a frozen shell made from a puree of marcona almonds, filled with almond milk espuma and finished with andalusian caviar. you know, chef, this meal is working very well. my palate is open, i m intrigued, i m only growing more hungry and excited. the desired effect is taking hold. if you were a famous chef and you were lured, as so many are, to the rivers of green promised by vegas, it s nice if you can