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In a featured double bill, Lydia Manch explores Costa Rica's Pacific coast, starting at an eco-resort in the north of the country - where everything is abundant, but most of all the lizards. It thunders my first week in Guanacaste, and everybody's talking about it. Peak tourism season in Costa Rica is November to April, the usual weather along this stretch of coastline pure heat and cloudless skies. But this spring's brought more dramatic weather. Across the border with Nicaragua storms have been landing with devastating force, in northwest Costa Rica the impact's milder: fierce heat laced through with sudden, tropical downpours that end as abruptly as they start. Sometimes it's sundrenched, sometimes just drenched; both improbably beautiful. The minutes and hours after the storms finish deliver the best soundtrack, the light drip from leaves onto corrugated metal roofs, the bellow of the howler monkeys living in the trees next to the apartment we're

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