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Photograph by Alessio Mamo Their construction further isolated the country and drained its finances and energy, leaving it one of Europe’s poorest countries. In the end, all that cement mixing was for nothing. “Hoxha spent billions of dollars for his dream of bunkering ( bunkerizimi) every inch of Albania, enslaving and bringing an entire population to the brink of starvation,” says Admirina Peçi, a local journalist and historian. “But history has proven that the real risk of attacks was zero.” Today, though many bunkers have collapsed or been destroyed, hundreds remain, repurposed as animal barns; painted to resemble flowers in city suburbs; or, for teenagers, used as secluded hideouts to smooch. At some of Albania’s Adriatic coast resorts (about an hour west of Tirana), cement domes have morphed into food stands and changing rooms. Elesio Resort in Golem has turned its basement bunker into a spa; its domed roof, jutting up into the hotel restaurant, is lined with sh

Edi ramaIsuf sulovariAli demiSkanderbeg squareCarlo bollinoEnver oxhaTek bunkeriEnver hoxhaIvo krugAlessio mamoDriant zeneliSkanderberg squareNational museum of historyNational gallery of artsEastern blocCold war