Writing Yunnan a Rubber Check

Our van stopped at a scenic vista on the contour road where verdant mountains undulated southward toward China’s border with Laos. Stepping out to take some photos, I was overcome by an acrid, unpleasant odor. I asked my local travel partner, Xiao Guan, what the stink was.“Money,” he said with a wry smile. “That’s the smell of money, my friend.”He pointed to a small rubber

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