okay. i'm officially in hanoi now. mm. magic. a spicy, wonderful broth with tomatoes and herb and noodles and fresh snails. plump and delicious. look at those beauties. come to me, plump little love muscle. mm. hanoi, capital city of vietnam. seven and a half million people live here. in the winter, it's chilly and damp. in the summer, hot, humid, subtropical. the boulevards and many of the buildings are french, but its heart and soul is always, always vietnamese. americans coming here as tourists for the first time, especially veterans of the war, are shocked by how friendly the place is. people are genuinely happy to see you. this is hanoi's old quarter, but it's looking less and less old these days. man, this area's changed, though. the irish/czech themed pub next door. vietnam is a young country. almost half of vietnamese are under the age of thirty. fewer every year even remember what they call here "the