a riot of gorgeous architectural styles, palaces, grand public spaces, former mansions of various princelings, the remains of a long-gone empire, still here. still here. if there was such a thing as building porn, it would be this. just looking out the window as you drive or trolley by, you think, i want that. who lives there? who lived there? what's it like inside? and where did they go? from high up gellard hill, you get a sense of the layout of the city. divided, split by the danube river, buda on one side, phest on the other. hungary's capital literally divided in two. literally a crossroads of worlds. >> which is which?