some time a city of immigrants. and the food reflects that genealogy. a combination of people from neighboring zhejiang province known for their liberal use of sugar, soy, and vinegar, and from jiangsu province, known for its ingredients and intention of preserving the aliveness of its dishes. it's the best of both worlds, great sauces, great ingredients. there's hung shao ro, braised pork belly in a deep red glaze of dark and light soy sauce, cinnamon, sugar, and anise. hung shao cha yu, a small fish poached first in rice wine, salted in light soy, then fried and ginger, garlic, oil, more soy and sugar until the liquids reduce into a gorgeous sticky sauce. jung ya, duck that's been marinated, blanched, then reheated, smothered in a sauce made from the reduced drippings left in the wok, with dark soy,