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haukur is part of a collective of farmers who run a tour company called islandshestar, which gives tourist like me the chance to be a cold cowboy and find out what makes these horses so special. 0n the back of an icelandic horse, looking out at this landscape — it is not terrible, is it? icelandic horses have been bred over the years to be friendly and trusting of humans which means you can travel across the countryside in a unique fashion. the way we travel, when we are travelling with our horses, is that we have this heard of lose horses with us. they are there that we can stop and swap, you know, so we are always having a fresh horse so we can keep up the tempo, we ride a bit faster. we ride, stop, swap, go. we could go

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