presente! for the hardcore believers, a return to where it, or rather he, began. the small town of predappio in north—east italy, the birthplace of benito mussolini, the country's fascist dictator, assassinated in 1945 after a ruthless 20—year rule. every year on the anniversary of his death the faithful gather to honour him. not for them the established narrative of his reign of terror. down the road, mussolini merch. from the traditional to the tacky, an extraordinary world of dictatorship kitsch. can you imagine an equivalent place existing in germany selling hitler and nazi paraphernalia? it just wouldn't happen.