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Every cook, no matter how experienced, has a stash of set-aside recipes, the favorites that she turns to at a moment’s notice. Those recipes may be tried-and-true in a functional, “here’s how I make poached eggs” sort of way, or maybe they serve as emotional salves against the world. With age, I’m discovering that there is yet another category of recipes — the ones that tell a story of my life much like a memoir, or exemplify the spirit of my path thus far. Like the people we meet and know instantly they are your forever friends, there are recipes that you pull close to the chest and never let go.

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