Spikes jut from the beaches of Taiwan's Kinmen island, military checkpoints serve as traffic roundabouts and bunkers double up as tourist cafes -- reminders everywhere of the conflict decades earlier with Chinese communist forces.Kinmen, which lies 200 kilometres (120 miles) from Taiwan island but only seven kilometres from the Chinese mainland, was a battlefield frontline for the nationalists who fled to Taiwan in 1949, and the target of frequent bombardments up until 1979.