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Veal is the meat of spring, if you can afford its high price. A recent cookbook about traditional Italian cooking, Old World Italian: Recipes and Secrets from Our Travels in Italy by Mimi Thorisson (Appetite by Random House, $45), includes a classic recipe for a special veal dinner. The author requires fresh sage, but in cooking this dish before my herbs were available, I found a sparing amount of dried sage works.
Thorisson’s 100 recipes are photographed by her husband, Icelander Oddur Thorisson, who also includes shots of scenery and Italians enjoying their food. The author — who has written cookbooks about French cuisine and blogs at mimithorisson.com — recalls holidays in northern and central Italy and how each region has its own traditions and bounty of vegetables.

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