I justified a trip to Newcastle as essential travel last weekend to take a closer look at chef Paul Cunningham whose restaurant Brunel's has been boxing up dinners including a six-course tasting menu for heat-at-home consumption. A six-course takeaway shows the kind of ambition last seen a century ago when the Mourne Wall was built by a handful of Down men sustained by buttermilk, jam sandwiches and 20 Woodbine.