I was in a subterranean haven at Cellar 22, a new wine bar on St Stephen’s Green, where Randy Crawford was belting out her ’80s hit, One Day I’ll Fly Away, over the sound system, and I honestly could have stayed there all day. In fact, this is not just any cellar. It has a considerable hospitality history down the years, having once been The Country Shop, opened in 1930 by Muriel Gahan, a staunch pioneer of the Irish Country Women’s Association, eventually closing its doors in the 1970s.