You might be tempted to describe the soon-to-open Esmé (2220 N. Clark St.) from the husband-and-wife team of Jenner Tomaska and Katrina Bravo as simply a restaurant. After all, Tomaska is one of the most acclaimed young chefs in the city, and technically, he will be cooking. But talk to the couple, and you’ll find they have lots of other ideas about what they want to do, with the food being ...