T
UCKED AWAY in a military cemetery in the Berlin suburb of Neukölln you eventually find it: a small plaque dedicated to “the victims of German colonial rule in Namibia…in particular the colonial war”. Berlin has no shortage of memorials to the crimes of Germans. Yet this is the country’s only commemoration of the genocide it inflicted in 1904-08 on the Herero and Nama peoples in what was then German South-West Africa. The plaque was laid in 2009 by locals anxious to counter the symbolism of the
Hererostein that looms behind it: a rock bearing a memorial dating from 1907 to seven German soldiers in the imperial