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It’s just past lunchtime and Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is already thinking about tonight’s family dinner plans. “I think we’re going to have cauliflower steaks with cauliflower cheese - my son loves cauliflower cheese,” he tells me on the phone from Devon. “I’ve just grown the most enormous cauliflower, probably the biggest one I’ve ever grown. I’ve had to stop short of the mentality of somebody growing vegetables for show.”
No stranger to the vegetable patch, of course, the River Cottage founder has enjoyed having more time to tend to his crops during the pandemic, and also took the opportunity to add three farm animals to the fold.

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