Driving towards Ísafjörður, dried fish huts greet you at the roadside. Approaching by plane, the harbour is omnipresent. Tourists arriving by cruise ship to the capital of the Westfjords are often welcomed by Kári Þór Jóhannsson. He runs the only fish stall in the region whose ups and downs are so closely tied to fishing. And he is a living example of the transformation of his homeland.