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Rogue waves. The old oceans are in constant motion waves pocket the surface of the water but ways are not equally high all over at the equator they tend to be more shallow at high latitudes theyre stronger. A wave can traverse entire oceans but its not actually the water itself that is moving with the wave confusing lets head to the shore and find out about waves and where they come from. The Atlantic Coast of portugal and spain towards waves large and small per surface of all novels of ability and as an enthusiastic wave rider hes also a physics teacher so he knows something about how waves form and what surfers find really epic a perfectly shaped long way surfing with my. Practice and patience of all fear built up the its often just luck you have to be in the right place at the right time there are so many factors the height of the tide the when the wave period that play a role and sometimes theres just a tiny window maybe half an hour a day when you get good way and the rest is rubbish you know. This looks like a good moment because. The surfing science teachers seizes the opportunity. But what parent waits exactly. Waves are the transfer of energy. Transfer and energy. So far todays waves have been pretty tame lets do an experiment on the beach and i ask a question it says town we can see how the way it is being propagated through the length of the cloth his shaking is providing the energy thats being transferred. But what does a wave in a towel have in common with a wave in the ocean. More than you might think. Whether its a towel wave or a water wave hit or the waves transport energy not matter. Even though that might not be obvious as seen from the beach the water is just the transport medium. Just like the surfers waiting on their boards the molecules in the water dont move over great distances the wave propagates much faster where where does the energy in the waves come from it. It depends on what kind of hoops were talking about. The moon this Gravitational Force keeps the ocean in motion. Its attraction produces the rising and falling sea levels known as and flow. But the waves. That interest servers are generated by the wind what matters is how strongly and how long it loads it gets the water particles moving. Heres a simulation the hairdryer makes a wind which makes waves. Wainscot travel for days and hundreds of kilometers from their place of origin in the middle of the ocean to the coast. Long and shallow waves tend to travel faster than the short high ones which slow themselves down. Within the waves the water particles follow circular or orbital paths. That this Orbital Movement extends deep down in the water the deeper the water the smaller the radius of the circular motion but when to circle in the water particles hit the seabed theyre stopped and then. That makes shallower water waves. Breakers are typical Shallow Water waves. They occur when the water particles below the surface are slowed at the bottom of the particles above continue to move on their circular patterns unhindered. Unchecked water particles move upward making the wave tower up at the shore and then break. To the delight of the surfers. The op looking at it makes you happy its very exhausting by night time not totally knocked out but happy if you get all the everyday stress its just great. But the best brakes dont come on demand which is why this evening until yes he got is still in the water waiting for that perfect wave. But waits can also be scary in the past sail is reported towering waves that suddenly a rose out of nowhere on the open ocean but scientists dismissed these accounts until the mid 990 s. That is when a socalled rope weight was documented on an oil rig in the north sea. This freak wave measured 25 metres in height. Now researchers are trying to understand and recreate these monsters. In the ocean waves that are between 8 and 10 meters high are commonplace but at any given time anywhere in the world there are likely to be 10 also rogue waves up to 30 metres in height. They appear suddenly and without warning. Scientists recreate rogue waves here in the wave basin of the institute in hanover here the water isnt whipped up by storms or currents the waves are generated by these panels which are controlled by a computer. They enable the scientists to simulate nearly every kind of wave at a scale of 1. 00 to 75. 00 everything from small harmless ocean swells to gigantic monster waves all the way for me to shows the current height of the way. Music outcome is going to simulate the drought in a way the 1st rogue wave ever documented it was measured on always dropping the oil rig in 1905 i did not say we can see it clearly in this north sea story it shows 8 to 10 meter high waves on average during the storm then here we see images. Dream of that a wave thats 25 meters high a rogue wave monster. Whats unique about rogue waves is that theyre 2. 00 to 3. 00 times higher than the highest waves around them. That also makes them 2. 00 to 3. 00 times as steep. A rogue wave has almost 10 times as much force as a normal way. For a long time it was a mystery how a wave more than 20 meters high could suddenly arise in a storm of 8 metre high waves but only to fan ish there after. The explanation waves dont spread out equally in the water waves with shorter wavelengths in which the troughs and crests quickly follow each other only move relatively slowly. Waves with long wave lengths are faster. They can catch up with shorter ones. When that happens they can combine to create a highway. If several waves join together in this way they can become a rogue wave. Broke waves are extremely steep a ship has no chance of sailing over the crest of a rogue wave as it can with an ordinary one instead the water crashes over it. The water masses collide with the structures on deck with tremendous force in a real scenario at sea this would break the ships windows and bend heavy steel elements. Scientists can simulate monster waves in a laboratory but what they really want to know is under what conditions and how often such waves will occur in nature. What is the likelihood of a freak wave forming. Previous estimates had suggested that the probability of finding a way higher than 10 meters in a heavy storm would only be 0. 03 percent. But measurements show that giant waves occur much more frequently the actual chance of waves forming that are at least 10 meters high is closer to one percent. And thats the classical approach adheres to the theory that every wave has a Certain Energy that the energy of one wave can sometimes overlay that of another to form a particularly high wave and that the component waves each with their own energy can thereafter continue on their way for. Newer approaches theorize that energy can also be transferred from one wave to another and that this 2nd wave moves on with somewhat more energy and the 1st one was somewhat less that was when you can. See the waves would take on energy from their neighbors and grow at their expense into rogue waves that can endanger even big ships at sea. This is not a rogue wave but its a nami tsunamis are not generated by wind at the surface but on the sea bed usually by earthquakes when tectonic plates colline releasing massive amounts of energy and displacing huge volumes of water. That are at it seats anomalies are still relatively small waves traveling fast. But when they reach the shore they slow and the water piles up into towering waves dozens of meters high which can destroy everything in their path. Weights arent only powerful theyre also pretty loud. They can go up to 100 decibels thats as noisy as a jackhammer at 10 meters away. The sound is generated when the waves break but despite the volume the sound of waves is generally perceived as relaxing. The. Waves break on the short day and night and have been doing so for millions of years. Nobody seems to mind the noise in fact most really enjoy the sound why is that. If anyone knows the answer then scientists at the frown Hoover Institute for building physics based in stuttgart germany. This is our echo chamber will use it to test absorbers. Peter punched ed and his colleagues research how people experience the sounds that surround them the field is called psychoacoustics they also develop products. Here theyre working on a booth with sound absorbing properties where one can conduct private conversations without being overheard. This chamber is anechoic that is totally soundproof its used to test things but its not actually pleasant to spend time man. Its perhaps rather too quiet were not built to hear nothing at all its we cant close our ears in contrast to our eyes now is our own original vigilance systems warning us of dangers seen our hearing is always switched on is designed to receive signals and issue warnings to protect us from harm seeking to nieman fallen to violently supervolcano. This kind of sound is better than silence if we want to relax. Just like. That has to do with the structure of waves. Its not a uniform constant noise with the same volume but rather it rises and recedes regularly its. Like the surging its a very relaxing kind of sound for us very familiar and with positive associations. For being. Prostitution a city at your own and white pink and brown noise are characterized by equal intensity at different frequencies the sound of waves exemplifies that when to avoid. The sounds of produced as water slaps on to water and displaces add when without movement there would be no noise and or to be of equal kind toward. People like certain kinds of sound with or without ocean waves technically generated white noise is sometimes even deployed in workplaces it can disguise other sounds. And it can be soothing. And seek to make this kind of noise doesnt carry information so after a while our brains infer that they dont need to do anything until in the noise out all register its. Liminal e when should even that thats why it feels relaxing. By listening its not real silence there is something that says but its not threatening is like its not telling us anything so we can just relax your attitude as you in synch country. Waits might still primal anxiety and let us sleep easy but one of the ocean is far away. Is highway noise and effective substitute. Is one for kills all oceanview traffic noise isnt all that different when the vehicles are just passing by at a constant speed and not starting and stopping the stuff once again the sound is continuous over time and have a constant volume because the cars are driving at around the same speed but i live in the fog so i get on with life form the think is when the cards we are privy can go so in a sense listening to a highway should be a good lullaby except our brains link the sounds to the cause of them and the associations are anything but mellow traffic speed concentration stress i believe the sound of waves by contrast feels friendly reminds us of the cation or allows our minds to simply go blank. We are just on facebook what do you think of when you hear the sound of waves. Mirer from venezuela loves the sound of waves and says nothing is more relaxing than to see and its waves. And he writes from indonesia that the sea is amazing almost alive its always rippling sometimes slowly sometimes strongly and sometimes its terrifying. For pius the sound of waves is very familiar. He wrote to us in peace what levy that uses skilled swimmer and thats what he knows. And the other from indonesia is more interested in the ocean waves as a source of energy and since we might be able to use them to replace fossil fuels and thats true. There have been many attempts to use the forces in the ocean waves to generate electricity weve been successful with other forces of nature solar power for example is most advanced in china india and japan according to the International Renewable energy agency. Other countries are focusing on wind energy here to china is in 1st place but its proven very difficult to harness the energy of waves. Immensely powerful forces. Huge wind generated waves. And the tides controlled by the moons gravity. Was an area of 360000000 square kilometers about 70 percent of the earths surface is covered by water. Most of theirs is in the ocean which could be a Massive Force of Climate Friendly energy but how can we harness that power tidal amplitudes very dramatically around the globe and parts of western europe there particularly pronounced. The 1st tide mills were built in the middle ages or even earlier they were driven by the daily changes in water levels. In the 1960 as this idea was picked up again and engineers built the 1st big tidal power station in brittany and france. Turbines inside title garage are driven by the ebb and flow of the ocean. But the engineers and country to prop. Im only few things are suitable for this type of power plant and the barrage has also disrupt the coastal ecosystem. But that didnt stop them they saw other ways of using Marine Energy this time focusing on the strength of waves. Wind generation surface waves tend to be large and strong as high latitudes of the northern and southern hemispheres. In scotland in the 1970 s. Scientists developed a series of new mechanisms intended to convert the energy of surface waves into alley christmassy many believe that way the Energy Converters were on the verge of a breakthrough. One such device was called the salters duck named after its inventor Stephen Salter from edinburgh the joke was tested in wave time but never on the open sea. Eventually these ideas fell by the wayside. In the early 2000 came a new attempt with this snake like offshore device its link cylindrical sections flex and bend in the waves and convert the motion into electricity but it never got past the prototype stage. German engineers are currently testing another system the ne most project involves flotation modules connected to pulleys on the seabed by flexible cables as theyre pulled by the motion of the waves a generator transforms the mechanical energy into electricity its being tested as an addition to offshore wind farms. So far most of the approaches to topping marine power have got nowhere one reason the formidable technical hurdles. Wave heights change continually constant the force of the waves to stand up to the biggest waves the machinery has to be very robust but is that clip and produces too little energy. When waves are gentler there are many different ways of harnessing wave power but theyre all still too expensive to be viable. And want to make Tidal Energy Developers shifted to anchoring the turbines on the sea floor by other than in barrages but underwater repairs are expensive. Plus i platforms have turbines mounted underneath that are more accessible and thus easier to fix when the corrosive salt water damages the machines. Although the energy of the wild and salty seas has repeatedly proved difficult to harness many engineers remain optimistic that a breakthrough is just around the corner. If our blood is read by our great laugh even. Now its time for our viewer question this week it comes from morocco i know you took a look at the ways in the ocean and asked where the water is really transparent. The water in this class looks transparent. The ocean looks blue book both water so why the difference. To understand that we need to delve into physics color is an effect of light and without light everything turns black. The light from the sun made the white but its actually a mixture of a range of wavelengths some of them are invisible to the human eye like ultraviolet rays other parts of the spectrum are visible to us and we see them as red orange yellow green blue or violet. That mixed together we could see the light as white. So why do. Different things have different colors. Because they absorb different parts of the light spectrum the rest is reflected on picked up by the receptors in the eye. The material the jacket is made of absorbs blue green and yellow light red like to be reflected so the jacket looks red. So whats going on with water. Close to the shore where the water is shallow the light mostly passes through without being absorbed or reflected. The light rays form on a larger body of water the red orange yellow components of the light are absorbed more strongly than the new light is preferentially reflected. So thats why the ocean looks blue its not because it reflects the sky. Divers can observe the effect of absorption as they descend into the depths 1st the red light disappears then the green and then the yellow what remains is blue light that hasnt been absorbed by the water further down that too is absorbed and you get to a point where no visible light at all has penetrated. So the color of the water seems to have depends on the quantity of it large volumes of water no clue. But a small amount of water appears transparent. To you at the science question then just ask you find us at d w dot com slash science and on twitter and facebook. Heres a fun fact waves have a strong effect on animals and plants take the panicle. You know those little alfred pods that appear to stones or shells in the water they rely on the waves to bring them they nutrients and the waves determine how long their penises are where the waves a strong bond goes have a shorter penis when the flow is gentler it grows longer and in any case mailbombing holes have the longest penis in proportion to their body length any animal. Next week will be heading for bangkok a city that is critically affected by Climate Change how can residents adapt to the constant flooding more abashed on the next edition of tomorrow today see you soon but i. Want. To call me primitive. If. Never the fleet. I am the power. Thats. All over the world. Africa 75 w. Actually prisoners just shows numbers but relative shows. The money for. The smart ways to win or lose her. Trip to the auto mobility show every week w. Read the real decides. To come from there lots of people in fact more than a 1000000000 to lead the largest democracy maybe thats one reason why im passionate about people and aspirations and they can sense. The television reporters tried to in the name pop to the floor of the sun in one memo thinking at the time keep the ball in broken for what happens if people come together and unite for a cool look. But i do the news often confronted difficult situations more conflict between does something still i see despite my own child to confront but he does on policies and development to put the spotlight on issues that matter most. To security oppression nationality since. A notch has to achieve so much more needs to be john and i think people have to be Accountable Solutions my name is on the type shes on and i wanted to tell feel. Close. This is the news live from berlin tensions mounting in iran as protests erupt for a 2nd day running now over the downing of a ukrainian passenger jet demonstrators accuse the regime of lying about its role also coming up on alert in the philippines a volcano near manila appears to be on the verge of a major eruption spewing gas of lava thousands of the force of the plague well have more from our correspondents on the ground. And the mayor of a small town

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