The one thing we know for certain about the capital of india is that it is colorful and. Fifteen Million People are said to live in london around its impressive buildings but the actual figure could be twenty or even twenty five million no one knows for sure more and more people are migrating to this metropolis in indias northeast in fact just as they have done for centuries the muslim moguls ruled from here so did the british during the colonial era today the citys destiny is determined by indians who are as diverse as the stories they write. Him to lift. Them up and here to. Lift the. Earth you were gonna write stories about modern day delhi entitled capital his latest book is not any about the city itself but also about the importance of money in delhi. Rana dasgupta was born in britain as the son of indian parents he moved to the city of his forefathers several years ago. Even though he takes a distinctly critical view of delhi the spirit of the city is very harsh and aggressive. Its very paranoid and concerned with threats and security and i think the warmth of the city is. Is is directed inwards so people are very good hosts for instance its a delightful place to be hosted the city because people once they invite you into their home they will give you everything to run up believes that the apparent harshness of the city comes from the fact that have the last few centuries it has been built by immigrants people who establishments and new life for themselves here for it got less of the consequences people said the delhi story ancient city because theyve been cities here for maybe fifteen hundred years but its actually not an ancient city because every time people in new sets of people come to the city they they abandon everything thats happened until that point they build another city just next door and then they ransack the old city for stones and everything and build again the british did that everyone has done that and even now with google which is the new shining tower city of of corporations and indeed in delhi you can take a journey back in time every day bustling own lies in the north of the city. Was then there is new delhi with its many splendid buildings and government offices located in the fossil author of the suburbs of noise and go to go on which are also home to millions of people and impress the visitor with their high tech architecture this is the one side of the creative glamorous beautiful side. In delhi when work is over for the day and the temperature has dropped below forty degrees people head for the citys pox and lakes this manmade lake in a trendy neighborhood of houses cars is particularly popular the water is too dirty for a swimming and but the lake is perfect for strolling around. And after a stroll its away from the lake shore and into the fray. In hamburg they head for the chances and in munich they head for shopping here in delhi party goers make for how its cars village with its countless restaurants and music clubs this is the epicenter of the capitals nightlife but on this particular evening it is not the rotating turntables that are the focus of attention but a group of poets who are taking part in the very fast daily youth poetry slam poetry slam is a kind of competition a capella that each presentation last a few minutes and is always extremely personal the upper edge limit for participants is twenty five. And it gratitude for the belief that was instilled. That day my friend dont give up for this fight for your dream is true each time you find yourself in with a hiccup member dowden we believe in you and the dream. We want to bring young people to the movement so we want to talk about personal and the political we want to bring young people bring out their war says and perform in front of small audiences build a Community Even speaks in a chaotic city like that i wish when cupid struck its arrow in love came knocking a poem this woman wrote deals with the risk of falling in love she would like our is to carry a warning but since they dont fall in love remains dangerous. Mind you there are other ways to use his have to trade hard for it however now that i am already here these deal with caution. Us are. Here the poem is presented as a song with guitar complement painful lines about love and life. But not all the poets focus on intimate and youll see we have performers who talk about how you know it is to be of woman in india. To be a northeastern india in a city which is discriminated through. This power it is not even indian she comes from to that doesnt really feel at home anywhere and now works through her frustration with poetry. That i dont have the same spirit of the unadulterated tibetan line india has seeped into my soul the elders called them sondra. But quietly they get offended the youths are a little more creative in choosing words for those not born in india but on the city streets im just another cheeky was the audience applauded and fiancee asked to play every time i was told. Afterwards they head off to other clubs where the evening isnt yet over. For example to manuever presentations also take place albeit a totally different kind. Welcome to the denny death fest. Death metal is a particularly violent form of hard rock the bass is extra heavy the voice is extra deep and the lyrics extra gloomy but in no way could the mood be described as apocalyptic. Narrative abroad its more like a lifestyle you will have all the people like a lot of people in the sixtys fiftys also attending maybe shows there as in india once they start working you know once you have real jobs and bigot night and all that kind of weight the Mickey Mantle is not there as a life stage. A death party as a fun event that is how ofen says these things he was born in hamburg but india has been his home for a long time now as a side job he sells records and fan articles. And its see the city and get called. I came here when i was seventeen but i can tell you about india is that the underground lives metal is always for the other side india too has its problems and many of the kids and even over fiftys also need metal music to distance themselves from the mainstream because biggest up against. Inside the blast continues but only until midnight otherwise the neighbors will complain that. This is just the right place for those who like things quieter and more classical dumbs performance in a theater in delhi many of the audience are here for a particular reason their friends. Or to have saved the evenings dance or this will be her first major appearance after a long period of training naturally her coaches also present. Classical arts whenever for the public it was always for the elite and affordable collages who were educated like opera and a badly all these modern music contemporary dance salsa whatever tango and all that their common goal but classical arts traditional arts never die theyre like golden biso gold never goes out of fashion law does it loses sheen down to its known as coochie puti this form of dons comes from Southern India but the story the dancer tells with her body is even versal it is about the conflict between good and evil and the hope for worldwide peace salvation through beauty. And. This place is a mix of classical culture and modern consumerism the kingdom of drains in the suburb of go go on is an Entertainment Center with an artificial sky and beneath it a boulevard on which you can visit every wage in india in rapid succession in one day anyone who is tired of walking can sit down and enjoy a touch of bollywood the dance interlude however is merely an appetizer for the Main Attraction the dream that many indians and even non indians love to nourish most of all the dream of bollywood. They ask the e. U. Numbering more than one hundred the dream characters are of course made of flesh and blood some of them have played in sang gooda more than a thousand times the song good or is the story of a prince who has to choose between two women one a princess the other a rebel. Initially i was not an actor i was a cricketer so. When i. Joined this field i think i started with the mimicry and all. You know. Means. Bollard films always inspired me. The need different and all emotions highly drama so day by day i get more directed from the art films i love actually in front of a camera i feel as if as if im blocked but i love speech i love being on stage i love the energy on stage i love the fact that we only get one take you know everything is life even if you make a mistake you have to live with it so thats thats a very challenging and and i just lost it i loved reaching out to the audience more the best thing is you dont have to understand him the to understand the show because it is it is very very selfexplanatory you know exactly whats happening its simplistic in the storyline but just while in the way its presented so you dont even need to have your headphones on oh you dont need subtitles on any kind of atrocity that you were just enjoying because you will get to see Bollywood Life so. In truth bollywood style the show lost nearly three how is the cost the same in dons and thats a happy ending to celebrate twenty between two women the prince gets what he wants first the love of the rappel and then the hand of the princess in marriage the audience is happy off to the empire and not around delhi is so crass dreamless at least. Thats my. From the kingdom of dreams to outright harsh and often on just reality to one of delhis many slums home to those who cannot afford the steadily rising cost of rented accommodation most of them came to delhi from far off places at a time when cheap labor was in great demand since then many have become unemployed. Because you could only be thought some of my neighbors have been living here for twenty years theres no electricity no Running Water and no toilets money so we live without any goal and without any form of comfort. Like many here crammed he hoped that she and her husband and their children would be able to move into a proper house but she has since abandoned that dream with the irony of the positive by the way how are we supposed to move into a bigger house if we have no income my husband cant find work anywhere we have no future and i have im going. The husband of russian a her neighbor is also out of work the whole family live from what she earns as a cleaner about two year olds a day. That i only hope that my children will be able to escape from poverty weve often thought about how we could get away but since we dont have any relatives who could take as then we have to stay a year salary be amenable to me at the gathering. Yet luxury is close by located just around the corner in fact is dennys most luxurious shopping temple here Running Water is literally fired into the air. And this again is the other side of the social coin a slum where water is scarce despite the vast amount of rain that falls in the monsoon season since the rainwater mixes with the filth here its full of germs and not safe to drink you wont find any water pipes here only water stations where every now and then a truck with a water tank will stop at the moment though there were none inside. I want to get that the video out of every day we have to fight for the bit of water we can get two or three canisters per family thats nothing. When gobbled up about them and there are no wells here we complain and complain about nothing happens its not going to let them a good look at me it didnt get me that i would get a good look at why they are waiting here a truck arrives at another water station people immediately rush up and get as much water as they can because no one knows when the next delivery will be. Yet we get water here every one or two weeks that is nowhere near often enough so we have to fetch it from other places and thats tough especially for the women. One resident told us that criminal gangs profit from the water shortage. Of bonnie. Some gang members have taken control of a public water tank mayor here there are just as i think. They sell the water illegally to people who dont even live here have been paid. An hour later the other end of the slum is a hive of activity at long last a truck with a full water tank has arrived in delhi for hundreds of millions of people throughout india living from chemist at the mouth so to speak is the rule because many settlements dont even exist officially they mushroom without any functioning administration experts are calling on the government to take action. So what the governments to look at is to strengthen its so Distribution System if not two networks if you want to Pipeline Networks it can make bulk storage points and from there on allow people to make their own user groups. As yet however there is no solution in sight and the time consuming procurement of water remains the fate of the poor how can they or that children ever escape from grinding poverty when many hours every day are wasted in fetching it out of the water situation is appalling it takes forever for water to arrive and when it does theres chaos the children have to help so they can attend School Fights break out and the police have to intervene its madness like they are like. The women then carry that canisters home the family has water requirements are covered for today tomorrow theyll have to ask around again to find out where water is available free of charge. Here there is water in abundance but it is unpalatable flowing through delhi is the young muna the second biggest tributary of the ganges which by many indians is a sacred river. The yemenite is probably the most polluted river in the world hundreds of millions of liters of wasted dumped into it every day. The farmers who grow their fruit and vegetables along the banks of the river a very wired. Gun up the river is completely polluted the main culprits are the factories who just discharge their waste in it you cant farm with water thats contaminated its a health risk. Its said that we use the filthy water but thats not true we irrigate our fields with well water which we filter first we even drink the water and we are healthy. There are far too few Water Treatment plants the only hope is that at least the ground water isnt toxic and can be used for preparing meals. If i cook with water from the river my children become ill so we avoid the river and only use water from the well. But one environmentalists experts believe that found this who grow their vegetables here are wrong and thinking themselves safe so even if you take groundwater theyll be something to ration but its not a complete prevention and you will find. The same levels of doctors. And that also has dangerous consequences for those who consume the vegetables since its in the body this is in the body of the vegetable you cannot wash it off theres almost nothing you can do about it cadmium effects the kidneys and. Similarly other chemicals can be endocrine disrupters they have long term integration impacts they also can go cause cancer people who shop at the many markets have little idea of the risks they dont even know where the produce comes from they think its enough to just clean it by hand but thats wrong. To do this i wash vegetables thoroughly before i cook them i know they contain a lot of pollutants that can make you ill so i clean them carefully. The Indian Government promised years ago to clean up the ganges and its tributaries but so far little has been done even though many indians revere the ganges as a goddess as yet it seems too few people are bothered by the fact that this divine river is more like a sewer. But there is also another way of dealing with refuse a creative fun fact here art is produced from scrap rusty containers are dont want with graffiti even artists from europe participate here they find that what is to credit and chaotic fuse that creativity we got to see a part of india that not many people get to see so we experience something very raw very raw very ghetto ive never seen so much diversity in my entire life ive never experienced a country where theres twenty seven different official languages and thousands of gods this mirrorless dedicated not to a devotee but to a National Idol of all places Mahatma Gandhi the peace activist a domes the facade at the Police Headquarters his portrait was painted many years ago by a german it marked the birth of delhis street movement. Also gives some kind of hope. To to the people and to this community which is generally very neglected neglected and things that are. Like these children who cant get enough of seeing top Class International lot in then neighborhood simply amazing. Theres no not everywhere he says artist come here from all over the world its great. What a telegraph couple. And in on likelihood they will continue to come because in delhi there are still countless containers that can be decorated and new end of shoddy facades either. Off the wall you know. If there are protests about him vajra mental pollution and injustice anywhere in delhi then this is the most likely place yet at first glance everything seems so laid back and unpolitical an oasis at the heart of a congested metropolis of over fifteen Million People this is the danube and elite University Many of its eight thousand students as well as a large number of its professors come from the lower social classes so its no surprise that ideologically the jan you leans to the left fighting slogans and revolutionary icons adorn the wools at the moment the students attending against indias government and its hindu nationalist policies. We are opposed to the governments economic policies we are opposed to the governments politics though we are getting really bad and i mean there are lots of conversations to be had with parents also is scared and wouldnt want us to take strong positions because everyone was started in students one by one from that institution the police and even universities outside india so given our solidarity so we do believe that he has a very strong message to step stronger wind which is including a lot of you with a lot of young people a lot of like minded people to get. The movement is headed by the man who sparked off the protests can i yaku ma is the leader of the all India Student federation after attending a rally against the execution of a kashmiri separatist he was accused of sedition and arrested. Khan i was released on bail and now rails against the government i have any idea what it will be bought her democracy this fight is for social justice at the university and elsewhere it is about saving democracy in our country or look better but articulate it. I. Ask asadi Freedom Freedom this. Students are at least able to voice their protest without interference the Security Forces are nowhere to be same. I am a protest are somehow a part of daily life after all there are many grievances that need addressing not least in the important Public Sector of health care. Once again delhi is under a blanket of small the problem is particularly bad at the cold time of year people cough and complain of headache and say their eyes are burning. Babys body and because of the quality because. I think its at least in september people out there got it. For four or five days now things have been unbearable this filth is dangerous and toxic. At times the fine particle levels exceed a thousand thats forty times higher than the threshold value set by the World Health Organization the tiny particles get into the bloodstream and the lungs increasing the risk of cancer and stroke the main culprits on diesel vehicles and the countless fires in the streets and all major Public Holidays like the valley the festival of lights fireworks add to the problem experts are calling for a sustainable policy to combat small there should be zero tolerance for risk hurting and dashed of the pollution the touch of a structured activity where the same time we need to scale up a big transport system so that the duke growing dependence on those who goes down with reduced. The situation will not improve quickly smoke related illnesses will become more common. Anyone who falls ill in delhi or indeed anywhere else in india and wants the best possible treatment but cant actually afford it likes to come here with a name almost as long as the patients waiting list the all India Institute of medical Sciences Delhi is known for sure it has aims treatment here is free so even those who cannot afford Health Insurance and that applies to most people in india can come here and be seen by the best doctors. One of them is trauma specialist doctor i meet gupta who is also the hospital spokesperson eames isnt a solution everybody wants to come and even for trivial problems they would like to come and get treated our teams primarily because the quality of care the general public has faith in it so in the sense you can save you have a recurrence of i dont you know sort of accidents but youre right we are struggling with the patient norden the numbers we would want that the other hospitals also take up a lot of aims and therefore the government of india is deciding to make more such like institutions in india outside his consulting rooms there are crowd scenes youd normally a says yet with a sports event but where these people are concerned famu is involved several patients have just arrived and awaiting for their first diagnostic appointment others have already been diagnosed and have come back to begin their treatment the waiting period can be up to two years. Some of the people here are company ing married couples parents and children who else while the treatment is being given they live on the site. Some of them wait out in the open. The last hour i have come with my daughter from the east from bihar my daughter has major problems with her bladder but i couldnt afford to have her treated so we came here to get the finest treatment. They may are going to have a kidney problem i came here a month ago but i didnt want to wait to have all the money tests so i returned to my village but my situation deteriorated. Not says why i have come back however i havent been able to get to bed so ill just have to see how i gets on a guy up in fidelity this ticket is very young. I live five hundred kilometers away i have problems with my kidneys and my liver i have been to lots of hospitals already and because none of them could help me i was sent here ive been having tests for a month now im waiting for a diagnosis sick of. It happening and im david this is. My husband has been having treatment for the last six years he has cancer of the larynx the treatment here really helps him its not easy to get an appointment except in an emergency but then things will quickly still im satisfied that. In contrast to the basic accommodation the system here is highly modern patients can register its computer stations they receive not in data and then an ok to the next available appointment most of the patients are extremely grateful but not all of them. Have the room. This girl has to book a loss her father is furious. I was delayed and we did what you can i get it when we wait and wait but nothing happens first she was supposed to have a blood test and a hearing test suddenly we were also expected to pay for the treatment but for the laboratory costs about five hundred rupees about fourteen euros but i dont have that kind of money and pop it down to deduct if i join you. In delhi things look totally different for people who dont have any financial worries as a rule it is not a nice they turn to but one of the many private hospitals. Having come out of anaesthetic rosie feels like a new person mother is with her only a short while ago rosie was still called michael and look like this. Now she has the body she has wanted ever since childhood to be honest with. Ive always been a female. And from the from the age of ten everybody was ago. In england where she lives the operation would have cost around fifty thousand euros here she will pay any a tenth of that to this specialist dr kosik is a cosmetic surgeon who specializes in sex change operations yet hes talking to another patient which. The procedures are very very affordable as compared to the best in countries and even in thailand and this is specifically to every patient or visit looks for the quality also side which is also under safety also the border things if you come by the highest was a bill quality and affordability that india i think it is becoming a number one now once abortion looking grandfather dale from the United States has become transformed almost unrecognizably into the flamboyant betty have to spend several years. Undergoing a hormone therapy psychological evaluation. Before you can even try to get surgery you have to have a letter from one side car psychiatrist and one psychologist to be able to commit to the clinic i feel wonderful i feel great. There is no outward indication that this move private clinic is where people can change their sex in india to that is something that would meet with disapproval officially transsexuals are treated with tolerance theyre acknowledged as a third sex but this human rights activist herself a transsexual says there is a lot of discrimination we people are such hypocrite we see you know if some outsider is doing something whether it is right wrong or whatever according the perception is ok we give a damn care but after we should not do anything because we have all our own prejudices rosie who will soon be flying back to england doesnt have that problem she has her mothers full support i love you mom she says time and again thanks for supporting me on my journey even when it leads to india. Our next story takes us out of delhi to bodhgaya in eastern india it was here two thousand five hundred years ago that the buddha is said to have found enlightenment even today thousands come here in search of inspiration and health for body and soul but anyone who is seriously ill and perhaps poor as well is in a really poor position outdated and overcrowded the local hospital is typical of those in the region as a ho for every ten thousand patients there is roughly one hospital bed and one doctor with often dubious qualifications. That at least is the view of pharma jagga yadav he lives in a village twenty kilometers away for months now he has suffered from stomach pains and attacks a fever he is now getting ready to see a doctor the man is an expert but he lives far away in the capital delhi javed you and his mother are excited. About. The tell you its great to know ill be talking to a real specialist im certain i will prescribe something that will help me to. Need to a neighbor of his will also be going along for a consultation she has chronic pain in her wrists judge who has told me to that the consultation will only cost one year a fifty something even poor people from the countryside can afford. There is no doctor at all in our village and those in the next village are no good. However that is where a Telemedicine Center was opened not so long ago john doe and me to are walking the five kilometers to get there even though every step is painful for him. A thousand kilometers to the west numerous high tech firms have settled on the outskirts of delhi dr tom works at a Health Center that offers online consultation for poor regions its services are subsidized by the state of nisha and his colleagues are aware of the limitations of technology and that often they can only scratch the surface with their Long Distance diagnoses but what if we can be favored a bit. Because theyre going to be for members of your youre going to be just examine what ever you want whatever you have no doubt but when you can order in front of you when you think youre going to feel more like youve got feeling that way for really difficult. Well you know everything is ready for the virtual consultation all thats needed now other patients themselves. Just do and need to have now arrived in a neighboring village they passed by the practice of the local doctor all they see of him on his feet but they would rather do without his services anyway however the entrance to the Telemedicine Center doesnt look too promising either the silicon cybercafe as its known offers various Digital Services including access to the tele dr its operators are trying to establish a connection to delhi hospital the doctors dont go to the villages the villages have to go to the doctors you know whats best of all the doctors are available twenty four seven all you need is an internet connection. But despite the help of a technician it takes half an hour to establish the link and the consultation takes as long again because sometimes theres no sound and then a picture using his mobile phone because the computer microphone isnt working the doctor asks job do if he sometimes feels nauseas jaja says yes he sometimes has to vomit we have a very very very little waited to get out of and will mention the going to be no different internet. Where the future looks pretty regular. Jato would like to have spoken longer to the doctor but in the meantime more and more patients are waiting for him to finish. Now its need to use turn this time into that link is perfect doctor prescribe some point and for her and her shoes her that she will soon be free of pain. Of all that if i think its a real step forward in this way i can charge you a specialist who will recommend the right treat and ive got. A bit. At the pharmacy on the other side. Side of the road jog do and need to present the prescriptions they have just had printed out they wait but they dont get what they want. Out of a living and i only start what local doctors prescribe you can have cough medicine and aspirin youll have to go into town to get the medicine on your prescription maybe youll be lucky there. So they will have to go all the way to board guy after all to the city of the border. Do and need to the road to the beautiful Digital World is longer and more complicated than they thought. In delhi anyone wanting to share a beer with friends and drink to their health has plenty of places to choose from. Like the beer cafe. The feeling the you see the least you. Think the owner of this modern pub explain to us what makes business so popular especially with young people. In theres a look at drinking nation you know the truth i dont think i look in the world can do an india thing in markets will be out of the eleven percent the good news here is that you got a lot of leave it where i just bought thats coming in any. Sector its coming into. This restaurant specializes in german beer and the beer that is served here complies with germanys ancient purity decree. You got. To then german beers and leisure because its. Its got to be essence and bali that you grew in germany is completely different to what we have in india the water in germany is probably playing a much better role by producing beers in germany then it doesnt mean it is easy palatable with the german mused yourself. The debater is becoming more and more popular in delhi is somehow fitting because in its own way the capital to listen thing of a brew to some tastes and souls its sometimes a tad bitter and in its own way delhi is definitely intoxicating. Took. Place was barely feel. The scars on some up the pain still tangible. The suffering her going. For cities edged by her. They have survived but do they also have a future. I really understand people who say they dont want to stay here. But i also admire people who want to stay here and who decided to create something. New a new beginning in peace time for the people making it possible what needs to happen if tolerance and reconciliation are to stand a chance is followed it will be a few blows once a really difficult complicated difficult forgiveness reconciliation forgetting they get stuck in your struggle to get. Out of darkness cities after a war. Starting march tenth on t w. Players play. A role to play a. Player. This is news coming to you live. On the civilian death toll keeps climbing. As a. School shooting is. To give