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know why it didn't piety or whatever my board yeah, it just kept like coming back and just i was on top of it trying to put my board in between us and then, yeah, i guess you saw that footage the way the wave went. as the wave went, my board was sort of off and i was trying to get to my board and then all of a sudden it came back again and that's when i you know, tried to position myself away from it, to the side of it, and it just was right there. and that's when i, you know, i don't know, i punched it hard or if baby punches, i don't know. i just sort of just went into, you know, fight or flight really. so, from there my board i started getting dragged

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