U. S. History, with over 1 million troops engaged. French and British Forces also attack along the west front. The 70 battle culminated in the november 11th armistice that ended world war. One man were standing in front of the pennsylvania monument dedicate in 20 1927 to honor the troops of 1927 many of them in the gore division, that were involved with liberating the town, which was involved in a operation that ultimately involved 1. 2 million soldiers. So you grew up not far from here, you explored these battlefield on many occasions, as a young, man and today as a battlefield guide. Yes i was born in a small town about 15 miles away. I grew up close to the are grown forest. I was discovering bone troves, then i became interest in the, war where is the frontline if we found bones here, thats what sparked my interest. Ive been working in several countries. I started working as a professional tour guide. I specialize in world war one. Ive done many tours with Many American people. I try to be as knowledgeable as possible. Oftentimes these are people that are very knowledgeable. Theyve already traveled to normandy, the day, but then you become interested in world war, one having a grandfather who fought, then they are interested in finding out where their grandfather was. That is very interesting because you learn a lot in contact with these people, showing the villages, showing the, remains solely you work with many people whose fathers or relatives were in divisions any become more knowledgeable about different American Divisions. This is what we will discover today, but we have remains everywhere. This is kept in the red zone. Nothing was built or touched. Remains of trenches are there. That is what makes it interesting. You mentioned it being a red, zone is that something that the french government has designated to make sure that this protection of land to remember the battles . Yes indeed. The red zone is preserved ground where the battlefield was kept. When it was cleaned, all the snow was cleaned, but not underground so we still find remains in the red zone. It is for remembrance of course. We also had some economical reasons. The french government but it was too expensive to clean the sole rather than keeping as it was. Of course, nowadays we still keep it. So were going to explore the battlefield, some of the significant points. He will talk about his experiences exploring these areas for many years, and his purse effective as a french historian and what the significance of the argon means to him and the french people. Why dont you tell us a little bit about the save nafta cans of varennes. First of all its very small. This is a small town. In 1791 Mary Antionette was taken to jail here. On the day that Mary Antionette and him were arrested then of course the town was multiplied for almost ten years almost day by day, the came here on the 14th, the town was liberated by american troops in 1980. That was quite a Logistical Center for the germans. They had Railroad Tracks here to give the supplies to of the troops that were on the front lines. The frontline stabilized on the south of the town. So for context before the beginning of the argonne the battle is called argonne because you see the forest, on the right is the river. We are 20 miles away from it. And thats about 25 miles wide. There are photographs that are taken of varennes, and varennes is showed with destroyed buildings, caved in. Do you know if the town itself was destroyed during the varennes operation or before . It was already quite damaged, by the french all artillery and the german artillery. Most of the damage is due to the meuse argonne. When you have heavy battles going on in the, street i know you know a lot about, it thats when you have most of the damage. Why do you think that varennes was of strategic importance for americans to make it on the first day of the bottle . Well, were not far away from the first line, the jump in line. But its the biggest town, in that part of the meuse argonne. It was a important Logistical Center, especially with Railroad Tracks, it was a place for people to supply those on the front lines. It was a very Important Movement to be quickly on the town. Can you point out for us the direction of the american advance early that morning after the artillery . And maybe where they would be positioned and firing. The american offensive studied three miles south of varennes, the 28th decision. The air river, well see it in a few minutes. They make their way coming from south marching north. The entire american offensive is marching north breaking through the german civil lines. Theyre going from south to north, its quite early in the morning of september. Then they got through that part of varennes, half of the town was liberated by the 28th. The other part right to the riverbank was liberated on the 25th. The direction is from the south to the north. Were walking through the pennsylvania monument which was directed 1927. One of the architects was paul one cret. He went to the United States and did his studies and then he was hired by the commission to help with the memorials. But i dont think that this is part of the American Battle monument, its private right . Yes its a state memorial. This is a state memorial. Its a very interesting one. That simple symbolizes peace. Internal flame against peace. So its quite a impressive. One so this memorial reminds pennsylvanians that they served all over. Its important for pennsylvania to honor members of their communities who fought during the war, just as they had done during the silver were, there is a monument in gettysburg commemorating the people who fought that war. As we approach, what will we see . Youll see that we are on a hill, we can see the valley of the air river. Its a small river flowing on what was the battlefield. Well see the air zigzag. Now its a quiet river. It grows up quite quickly. Then it becomes a natural barrier. So that river was the limit back in the day fighting on the left riverbank, and 35th funding on the right river back. The direction was still the same, coming from the south rushing to the north. After liberating the town of varennes they made their way further north. On the left, in the Argonne Forest, we see the plateau of the Argonne Forest we see the 27th division, the new yorkers that will probably see, talk about a lot today. We see quite well the Argonne Forest. Its a large ridge. 40 miles long. Ten to 20 miles wide. That was the limit between the french operation. West of the Argonne Forest, east of the Argonne Forest. Why did it take until the autumn of 1918 for a major offensive to liberate the archive . Where theyre french troops already here trying to liberate the area . Can you tell us what happened leading up to the 26th of 1918 . The germans at the beginning of the war scheme through belgium. We have heavy battles going on right there. The belgium troops are defeated, they ordered a big retreat. They will march 20 to 25 miles a day so. The germans are fully the juror men retreat. Early september of 1914 the germans will occupy the town of varennes, occupy the argonne, still go further south. They wont stop. Here they go further south, then the battle is the first of 1914. We wont go into detail but thats a big defeat for the german. They have to withdraw from their position back north. When we go back to the argonne we have some hills, good regions to stop. Coming back into the argonne germans will put barbed wire along. The german defenses are stronger than the french country. The frontline will stabilize. That doesnt mean that the french wont fight to try to defeat the germans here but the german defenses are too strong. So we have heavy battles, especially for one year and a half. Big battles going on in the Argonne Forest. That wont give any advantage to one or the other camp. The classical offensive will then switch to a mine war. In the argonne we have soldiers realized they werent able to go over the top. The idea came up to dig up the position under the enemy line. It would provoke a mine disruption. They wanted to capture the trench. Of course that means a slow battle because youd have to pull it explosive and that wouldnt give an advantage. For three years we had heavy battles speaking about the war. If we look at the entire frontline, the battle moves to four years. We were needing a important advantage to go back to a movement war. We dont have that for four years here. Thats why it stayed quite stabilized in the army. General persian referred to it as open warfare. He insisted that the americans not stay behind the trenches, but utilize weapons, small arms. In the 1913 and 1917 there was a running joke in the army because a lot of troops had spent a lot of time training, especially in the United States they have fired guns, and when they came over here they often fired their weapons for the first time. So the movement of warfare was important. Why did the french not try the Movement Warfare earlier to try to dislodge in the hills or occupy the area behind a barbed wires . They tried, but never succeeded. We have to think of the front mine as, the entire front line, will have offensive from time to time by the french, the british, the germans, but never on a very wide scale. For four years we never had a wide frontline. When we were able to have a breach into the enemy lines, we cant take benefits from their operations. The french will try hard, not far from the are gone. 30 miles. But that wont work. The try again. A big battle. For the first time we have a huge operation for the french. The french moved the frontline around three miles for three weeks. 400 mile frontlines, compressor, in comparison to that its very small. The americans of course the give something important. Fresh troops, plus they are very immersed. They help to switch back to the german words very quickly and defeat. Them you mentioned the numbers of americans. The American Division at the time, the main Tactical Unit was more than 37,000 officers and men. That was twice the size of the french inmate invasion . Yes about twice the size. How about a german unit . How many german troops were in this facility by the time the operation commenced on the 26th . There was a German Division in line. I dont have the number of how many there were exactly. They were all along the front line but not only their. The defenses had several 45 lines. They were there for four years and had deep and strong positions there including machine positions, almost every hundred yards on the front line. They also organized a deep defense. They would use any read you see in the distance as a place to retreat and face and slow down the americans. Plus they have a strong ally that will see later. A heavily fortified wine that was put in place months before the offensive in case they were able to resist on the front line they could retreat that line which is about ten miles from here. Lets head to ship now which was also very important. It involved the 35th kansas division. Further on, in the woods around there, it involved a young tank commander by the name of george. Were standing in front of the missouri monument which honors a troops from missouri, many of them served in the 36th division which is one of the National Guard divisions of the american forces. One of its most famous numbers was a artillery commander by the name of captain harry. The division fought in the area, they were firing artillery towards the hill. Cant you point us towards them and tell us the significance of why the americans attack that hill . The hills behind us, its two miles from here, you can see the top of the trees in the distance. Its an observation position used by the germans first. The frontline will stabilize on top. For three years and a half we have heavy battles going on. So the french were relieved, the troops were relieved on the 26 for soldiers on the 26th. Of course to take dominating ground, and then they could see whats going on next. Then cheppy village. Thats their jumping line through the fields. Some small woods including that wouldve cheppy are there, and then finding their ways into varennes and cheppy. Captain truman wrote home to her fiancee, telling her about the battles she was involved in and her experience in. War one of his more vibrant messages involves the attack on the 26th on the hill. Were going to read one of the letters that truman wrote home. 75 millimeter ammunition was fired earlier in the day. After his unit reached north, tremendous battle waited as, the hill he wrote was nothing but a mud filled hill. They realized that the guards werent raised high enough to reach it. Forced to improvised, they filed several rounds in the general direction of germany. Trying to keep out of harms way when a doug litt right in between his legs. He hasnt had a charmed life he jokes, no one has. Does this remind you of the memorials youll see throughout this front . Its part of the state of missouri, the state pays to have someone make sure its cleaned up. After the war many of these states like pennsylvania wanted to honor the troops from the area who fought throughout the western front. Lets head towards the cheppy woods, because the 35th division after varennes hidden in that direction but the trump, but they ran into trouble right . Yes in the town of cheppy thats where the germans had very strong winds. Youre going to see remains of original trenches there which are very impressive. The american troops, namely the 35th division was led by george pat. So dm what are we looking at here . This is the front line from the operations. So we met at varennes thats where we saw the memorial. Now were going to cheppy where we saw the memorial close. By now were going to enter the Bois De Cheppy, its famous for very special man who was found there a long time ago. Its the woods on a hilltop dominating the plane that we have on the map. So the offensive was cut through a straight line. American soldiers had to make their way north, including capturing the Bois De Cheppy and then making their way north. So thats where we enter right now Bois De Cheppy to see some of the fortified lines made by the germans. So the small river to the left, the offense from the 35th was on the right of the bank of the river. This includes the surrounding river. We are marching the same way as the american operation was starting. Jumping of the line, and making its way north. And where with the german positions be . All along the ridge here, into the slope of the Bois De Cheppy, dominating the ground where the americans had to fight. The germans used the hilltop, they would always try to use their land and how to defend. They would always have the dominating position. That would be a bloody date for the american troops. September 26 is a successful achievement. On the 27th, the 35th division attack started to fall apart. In the next couple of days that have to be relieved. Yes its one of the First Divisions that were relieved. This happened over very few days. We have remains over a German Center to the right. Not in good shape. We see a piece of concrete. That was a german shelter. We have blackberries growing over here. Weve remains. That was filled probably by the former close by. We go through the small past and we can find in the forest if we move a few meters we have to imagine a bit deeper. Five to six deep but after a century didnt quite restore the position. Hand grenades everything, so thats a minor point. On the crossing here, the minor trench, communication trench, then it goes to another one, some Ammunition Stores or whatever. My position is deep. You have to imagine from six to seven feet deep, looking there, if you can imagine the american soldiers moving towards a shift imagine most of the trees are gone. Thats the dominating position for the germans. Every 30 meters more or less we have one more communication trench. You have crossings everywhere. That allows the relief to come as well. We have some disturbed ground now thats probably from the firing of the artillery, three hours wrong, this some of the german front lines that were to be lost on the first hours. On the morning of september 26 the 35th division attack is heading in this direction. Were in heavily fortified trenches of the germans. There are german trenches down the ridge. Plus there are some holes from not only firing in the morning of the 26th, but also leftovers from previous trench tax. Yes because this area was shelled, even in the oil sector that doesnt mean that we have shell. Every day there is shelling. We have it from the american artillery but also from previous troops. So they are heading in this direction. But theyre starting to fall apart. This heavy dirty firing in the groups or scattering. These groups are led by the brigade commander. He sees whats going on, he sees that the 35th troupe is in disarray. He wants to take out the german machine gun nest which is all around us. Hes leading the tanks forward. They start getting blocked off into shell holes, and trenches. Patton whos known as a animated officer encourages them, probably uses a lot of profanity, and starts having them dig out the trenches. Then they head forward, as theyre moving, patton is hit by a machine gun blast. Most likely from somewhere around this area . Probably somewhere in the field there. Most of the firing was probably coming from that direction. So he was hit, shot near the groin. He is bleeding profusely. He is dragged while the machine guns are blasting, hes placed in a shell hole. They begin medical treatment. They are able to save his life. Eventually you can get a ambulance there. There are few roads leading in that direction, it takes a while for the ambulance to take him. They place him in, there there is a long, bumpy journey back to the field hospital. Then eventually hes sent to a general hospital. September 26th, the morning of the first attack, the battle of the war is over for george patton. This is a photograph from that . Yes. He took a photograph from location where he thinks the shell holes were. It seems to be somewhere here. Firing was probably coming from one of those positions. So the exam at the exact position was not known. Is it true when hes leading the third u. S. Army his troops are fighting not far from here as theyre pushing the german advance . Yes. In late 1940 for the third or me liberated a few days before the battle of meltz. So this is early in the war . Yes. As soon as the germans got here the frontline stabilized. So than they had trenches here, but also in the valley. So this is a proposition. Easier for machine guns for example. If you imagine the americans trying to cross its a small reform but you still have to cross it. I cant imagine being told you have to check this position being fired on. Youve stuff on top. The wires that were around. I see over there some, remains from a smokestack maybe . Yes, or it could be a ceiling from a round shelter. That could be it. Then we have a lot of disturbed grand. So that area was heavily shelled. Sometime after the heavy rain you will find bullets while just walking. Look at exploded shell. Yes. So dont touch it but you can spot it. Very cool. So i caliber is that . 75, Something Like that. So has it been fired by the americans . Yes german or french if its the 75. Yes. So later on i will call the de miner and explain what it. Is they will come for. It yet we need to market . No its easy to find from. Here i will give you an explanation and a map. I suppose because of the rain it fell down from here. Do you see it . I suppose because of the heavy rain it collapsed. So it probably had been buried for 100 years. We think that will need several centuries to have the ground clean again. As we head heavy rain in the past few days, there are several pieces of shawls. Its very heavy comparing to the size. This is very sharp. The idea is to explode sharp pieces to give bad wood to the. Soldiers looking around we start to see. Then i see a small one right there. You have to try to find the right side of the rock. It is everywhere. We speak about a battle that is one month and a half, but in fact its four years long. We have battles going on every day. So were in the church, he headed to the frontline. He was used in the war by the french initially, and then by the. Germans we want him to explain more about it. All the people at the village evacuated the village and then went to the southern part of the state. So the germans started to the village was empty, no one was in a anymore. The germans started to walk out of the village, pretty much destroyed. It the church stood up. It was always part of the walls, some of them survived. When the americans came into here they decided to use the church as a infirmary. They brought the Wounded Soldiers here, but then they decided which hospital you would go to. So the part that was more exposed was in fact the northern part, the frontline stabilized few yards in the village north. One will see this meanly on the picture. This was used as a field hospital. One soldier from the regimen takes something as a souvenir from the trip and was given it back. He took a crucifix that he found in rouen. He took it and kept it all of his life. He was given this cross after his passing. She decided she wanted the village, the owners to receive it again. She started researching, and she found this photo, and from this photo she managed to find the village because she had no idea where it was or the name of it. Through the correspondence she was able to come back and gave the cross back which was now in the church. This happened a few years ago, she came back and the cross, the crucifix was given back to the church. His name was alfred anes. Her name, his granddaughters knee was patricia carson. This was one of the first churches that had been rebuilt after the war. This Church Actually became again used as a church by 1920, 1922. Its a french soldier who died. We saw his family visiting his grave. In the background we see a destroyed village. The village was destroyed during the war. We see destroyed walls symbolizing the destroyed village. This is a renaissance style christ appearing in this scene. It was produced by a artist from anancy. They created many glass steamed walls for churches. Blending religion and the war. That is very interesting. We are inside the church that we are showing. There is an american boy here playing a organ in the church. This is the exact location where the picture was taken. We have the very same columns and the building. Its still there. The organ is in the original location. It was restored several times. Its part of the original. The picture was taken on the october the 11th of 1918. I already saw the picture, but a few months ago, i had eight american client who told me he wanted to go to this village and he showed me the picture. So ive already heard about it. Then looking for the war, it seems like its a important one. I was speaking with the mayor and his wife right now and he has people asking him where the picture was taken. So this has a few details that we have. The village was a german camp, we were seven miles from the front line. This is an important german, camp mrs. Used by the germans. They said they had pipes out of it. It was used as kitchens. As in some villages, some of the inhabitants tried to escape from the villages. Germans right very quickly. A month into the war they were already. Here some of the militants stayed under german pressure for four years. Farmers had to form for the german troops, they had to work for the german troops. Sometimes i think new pavement on the streets, anything. Thats what all the, life the civilian People Living under german pressure. Then the First Division entered the line, they will liberate the crown. These villages were probably part of the offensive. The picture wasnt taken on the very same day. These are the very same soldiers. We are entering into a we would location, this was part of the german nantes line, the fortified a line where the germans tried to stop the offensive. As soon as we enter the woods will find remains from german trenches. They are still very deep in fact. Here american troops from the 42nd division fought there and had to make their way through some of the most fortified german lines. So here it is. Auditing zigzag shape. Its still quite deep. Its coming from the top of the hill right there. And then going down. Finally turning left. It goes all along the ridge of the farm, to the other farm. The attack was launched on october 14th of 1918. It was led by the 84th brigade of the 42nd division. The 42nd division was known as a land Boat Division because it included National Guard divisions in the United States. It was led by general gunther who had risen through the ranks. First he started as chief of staff, then the commander had been sacked. And then when he was promoted. The reason he was promoted was because he proved himself and battle. In fact he would end the war with more decorations than any other aef commander. The army knew that this would be a difficult effort. The 84th brigade reported to fifth court commander by the name of charles. He was a tough guy. He told mcarthur your brigade will take this position or i want to see a list of 5000 casualties. The council retorted we dont take that position, not only when we see the list of five dozen casualties. I will be on that list. The 48 brigade on its flank was heavily pushback by the germans. This whole area was heavily fortified with machine guns, artillery, why, or the germans had put wire all along the line. Its as they got forward, they were stopped by the line that hung up. Casualties were mounting. One report said the bodies were piled up on top of each others. The next day, october 2015s, the attack began. Finally, pushed, he said you will continue to attacking. The troops finally broke through the line and drove the germans back. The americans were on the high ground. Although the germans dont go far, and were repeatedly firing. The position for the most part was in american hands. That helped to a alleviate fire elsewhere, which allowed other american troops to come up. So where did mcarthur come from that . From the car. First they will face the two farms. Then they will make their way into the forest, climbing up the top of the ridge, and then starting to face deep german trenches that we currently see. Thats the perspective that the hill give the americans as they were even further on top of it. From here we can see very far away. Were standing in front of the monument, which symbolizes the entire campaign, which lasted 47 days from september 26th to november 11th 1918. The battle of course ended with world war one at 11 am on november 11th, 1918. But really it was news of the battle in this large front between the meuse and argonne force that push the germans to their knees, recognizing that the 1. 2 million americans who fought in the battle, if they continued, would only grow. If the war continued into 1919 the germans had no chance of winning. The village is now down here. The germans came here and captured them at the beginning of the war. The kept them for four years. For four years it was the highest ground of the argonne. They fortified it to make a lot of shelter around. We still see a lot of shelter around. Still there. Heavily fortified. This need building in the middle is a german observation center. The same stones from churches and small houses around. We have the rear entrance, it was a observation position because its the highest ground of the hill. Then the highest level of the offensive, thats why the monument for the sacrifice is here. It consists of big columns that resemble greek or roman symbols, the character is facing south. Hes looking at the troops. Especially the 79th that will soon come to liberate the argonne and then eventually the entire french ceased area. Then he was walking in that part of the country, he always had a falcon on his shoulder. He had a falcon when he came to the top of the hill, he didnt want to leave. He decided to stay here. Then the heel of the falcon. It was rebuilt several times. Its a gothic style church, dedicated to german. The church was used as a paris church for the government. It was taken by the front and then the americans. Finally this is the final result after five years of war. It was such a big church comparing to the size of the village. Its from a benedict in perspective. So this crown is kept and maintained by cough they take care of the cemetery, the monument and the church. Cut through the church we see the remains from the battle. Heavy holes. Big impacts from the shelves. We have some impact coming from bullets firing into the columns. And of the church finally collapsed. The architect who designed the memorial is john russell pope. This memorial was built in the early thirties. It is concrete made, 60 meters high. The highest american memorial in europe. John russell pope of course designed a number of buildings in washington d. C. , including the National Archives where ironically, record stacked of this battle are not kept. It was an important strategic landmark in the battle. It was taken and the second day, even though general persians objectives wanted his troops to take it on the first day. And then push forward. It is on the highest ground in the area. It overlooks the whole muse valley and the germans had this ridge heavily fortified. It could fire on the advancing american troops. The woods and heights itself proved to be very difficult to penetrate and it wasnt again until that second day when the 79th division which consisted and National Army troops from maryland virginia pennsylvania finally broke through. One main regiment the 313th invest infantry known as baltimore, men from that city who pushed forward through the woods and up the hill, and then surrounded falcon mountain and penetrated up the ridge and drove the germans away. The germans did not go too far. They were able to withstand american fire and literally made their own stand bringing up more reinforcements which forced the battle to go on for another more than six weeks of heavy duty fighting. The battle of course and it with the armistice of world war one at 11 am on november 11th 1918. Khoury having lived through a loss of confidence in our institutions, a wave of cynicism that has left us unable to trust what we are told by anyone who calls themselves an expert, it becomes very difficult for us to rise to a challenge like this. Our first reaction is to say no, they are lying to us, there are only in it for themselves. A lot of our National Institutions have got to take on the challenge of persuading people again that they exist for us, that they are here for the country. The disorder known as arrow neurosis, a condition brought on by flying. He also talks about diary entries from pilots who experienced this condition and explores their lives after the war. It is to our event was hosted by smithsonian associate last september. Tonight we are very pleased to welcome back to the smithsonian, mark will concern. Mark will cannes is a historian, writer and museum professional. He is the current curator of maritime history at the caliber marine museum. He has also been a director and curator above the cape cod maritime se