China forcing fashion to mute itself over dirty cotton

When a fashion industry sustainability group called out China over its treatment of Uighur Muslims, the idea was to nudge Beijing toward human rights reforms while cleaning up a troubled corner of the US$60 billion global cotton business. Western brands have learned the hard way that things do not work that way in China.
In the 12 months since the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), whose members range from Uniqlo owner Fast Retailing Co to Nike Inc to Walmart Inc, published a statement on allegations of forced labor in the cotton-growing Xinjiang region, several brands have suffered major setbacks in China, one

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