From the explorers telling old stories with new tech. . . That was amazing! we are trying actually to. . . . . To discover all the story behind them. . . To the drivers of these beautiful but treacherous mountain roads. . . Oh, my gosh! why doesn't he move over?! you're good! he was going so fast. See, you. . . Now, your tolerance, building up. . . And the locals in love with montenegro's maritime show stopper. . . . . Off limits to all but the richest visitors. Go, go, go! go, go! pull! you, a little bit. Now you. It's me and andrea against a bunch of hardened montenegrin fishermen. And you know what? we're not losing! 0k. Come on. 0h, she's catching up! we can't let this old lady beat us. No, no! faster! will be a crash! no! don't crash! actually, we are stronger than guys. Yes. As long as we don't come last, i don't care. Yes. We're in kotor bay — one—of—a—kind world heritage landscape ringed by historic towns and villages. Those fishermen — they're so fast! how are they so fast?! my arm muscles are burning. You will be stronger. We are not last! hey! the contestants here all live on the banks of the bay and once a year come togetherfor a race and a fish supper. I feel like i've crashed someone's family gathering. Yes, everything you see, it's. . . Yeah. . . Like at home. Domestic atmosphere. I love it, i love it. It's easier with the hands. With the hands? 0h. You just. . . . . Like this and you try with the hands. You don't need them both. Ah! that's where i'm going wrong. Fish is eating with the hands. Right. Oh, yeah. I see you're eating with your hands, too. Tell me about your family. My mother was winner, but before. . . Your mum won! yes. Wow! when she was young, she liked this. Also, father, after. . . And your dad won it as well? yes. And now me and my son are here. . . Great!. . After the years. Sorry we didn't win it this year. But we will do next year. 0k. Next year, i'll be in training. You will come back. Yes. So, what's it like growing up here? very nice. It's a small place, but for. . . Also for the houses and everything, we try to keep everything like it was. We are not a lot of us, stay here, from old families. You can count us on fingers. But the area's changing. Further along the bay, the superyacht marina of porto montenegro is attracting high rollers from all over the world. Work started almost as soon as independence was declared in 2006. To this day, it continues to expand. I think it's quite glitzy. It reminds me of dubai. Yes. Yes, it's a little bit glitzy, but from that side of the bay, it's ok. They needed something like that. We have here tradition and they make now porto montenegro. For me, it's ok. Very nice restaurants. Also, you have here to see something. . . . . Some other face of montenegro. So, old and new. As the afternoon wears on, it feels like there are awards for everyone. Even andrea's presented with her own camellia — even though we came second to last! so, inevitably, i'm summoned to the top table too. Thank you very much, everyone, for having us, for allowing us to compete in your camellia trophy. It was such a fantastic event and it was really great that everyone was so welcoming and included us, and let us enjoy and be part of your local traditions. So, thank you. Thank you very much. So, this bay is full of shipwrecks. We're talking roman cargo ships, venetian merchant ships, planes and submarines from the first and second world war. If you can dive and you're interested in history, these here are rich waters. Hi, darko. Welcome. Thank you. Please. Darko kovacevic has been exploring them and mapping their contents. He and his team at the university are scanning the many wrecks in the bay, one by one, and creating an online catalogue for people to swim around in virtual reality. Darko, why is this so important? digitisation of the shipwrecks is giving the ability to the community to really first time see the wrecks that they were not able to see, if they are not divers. Most of the community, they are not divers — the kids and elder people etc. Thank you. Early the following morning, we head out into the bay to see these sights in real life. I'm a relative novice at wreck diving, so darko has brought his team to look after me. Signal me, please. 100 bar. 50 bar. At 50 bar. 50. 0k. I think this is my first wreck dive, actually. First wreck dive, yeah. Because most wrecks aren't 18m, right? it's not scary. Darko, what's the visibility like? it should be up to 20m. Up to 20m? yesterday was quite clear, so i believe we will be able to see the whole wreck. Darko is taking me to see a yugoslav patrol boat sunk during a naval exercise in 1983. It's become one of the most popular wrecks to dive in montenegro. You can swim through the hole left by the grenade blast, and the sponges growing on it make it a colourful, otherworldly experience. Wow! that was amazing! the water was so blue. Yeah, it was nice visibility. Really nice. The patrol boat's one of the more modern relics down there. But the next thing darko wants to show me is much more ancient — a recent discovery made only last year. So, now we are at the site with the roof tiles. We suspect that the tiles are originating from roman to medieval period, when the development within the bay was flourishing. So, this site might be correlated with the shipwreck which is on the entrance of this bay. The roof tiles are already scanned and now the team is working to see if they can link them to a roman vessel found in deeper waters. Darko, there were so many tiles down there. Well, it's a very interesting site. I don't believe that that's a wreck, but most likely, the weather was very heavy and someone was throwing those tiles overboard to make the vessel lighter, so he can escape. But it's wonderful to have the backstory, to know the history behind it. Yeah, i think so. We are trying, actually, to discover all the story behind and then to give it to our colleagues in the dive centres, so they can tell the story to the tourists. I love what darko and his team are doing. It's all about generating enthusiasm. And if they can convince everyone else that this is worth preserving, we stand a chance of saving this so everyone else can see it too. This may be an historic stretch of coastline, but it's modernised rapidly since independence in 2006, and not only in kotor, which opened its new cable car last year. Billion—euro developments at porto montenegro, lustica bay and porto novi have attracted the super rich and their yachts. Some say this is the 21st century's answer to the french riviera. Well, if you're trying to build some infrastructure for these high—end newcomers, well, you can see for yourself — mountains and valleys everywhere. And historically, that's been a problem for montenegrin road builders, which is why some of the driving here is not for the faint of heart. Work has now started on a big road upgrade, running from kotor bay down the coast to the resort town of budva. It's part two of a project that's already seen montenegro's first motorway open, running from the seaside town of bar all the way to the serbian capital, belgrade. But i'd heard some of the country's most difficult roads are often the most beautiful and wanted to take a look. Need a ride? yes. I love it! check it out. 0k. It's been a while since i've driven a manual car. Janko scepanovic is my guide. He's brought his vintage yugo. I need two hands! one thing you should know, and this may be the most crucial thing, this thing have stopping. . . Like, need stopping space of one train. So, when you press the brake. . . 0ne train?! yeah, when you press the brake, count. You need, like, a few metres until the yugo stops. Right. So, no tailgating? no. Yugos were so popular here in the 1980s, when the country was part of yugoslavia, that they became something of a national symbol. Nope. Sorry. Yeah, we're good. As i stall! now we just need a little bit of practice! go ahead. Put the hammer down, billy. Here we go! so, tell me about the yugo. Part of yugoslavian heritage. It was. . . In socialism, nothing was too flashy, let's say. Right. Like, they need the car that was cheap to buy. Affordable, too. Oh, gosh. I shouldn't have done that. No, you're good. Affordable to everyone. Right. And easy to repair. So, you have this prime example of the. . . Every single part of this carwas, like, produced and assembled in yugoslavia. Right. And is it easy to get parts for this now? no, no. The stretch i'm approaching is notorious. The kotor serpentine has 25 switchbacks with a precipitous drop down one side. Kotor was, like, super connected by the sea for the whole world. But for inlands, this road, with a little road next to this, was the only connection with the continental part of the world. So, now we're going to the left side. Turning left. This is mandatory. Oh, my god. To crunch the gears! yeah. So, what are the tips for driving this road? lock your eyes on the horizontal. Hope for the best. Yeah. Sorry, sorry. 0ops. So, is everyone happy about this new highway? uh, i guess. I'm happy. Do you think. . . You know, people will be missing out on the adventure? of course. Every time when i'm not in a rush, i try to take this one because it's not only adventure, it's, like, experience. It's tight. You have to stop. You both have to reverse. You talk to people. You stop at some nice, like, bars, local farm or whatever. I've got cars behind me that really want to. . . You can let them overtake you here. Shall i let them? yeah. You can overtake me. Engine revs. Bleep. You're good, you're good. Don't worry. Right. 0k. It should be in. Oh, my god, i hate this. I can't. No, you won't go anywhere. Don't worry. Try again. Engine splutters. Engine revs. 0h! so, what did you do? no idea. So, for many montenegrins, i guess this great big new highway is a really good thing. But, you know, if the school of thought that travelling is more about the journey, then i can't help but think they're missing out on some kind of adventure. Oh, my god, i'm in the wrong lane, aren't i?! my final stop takes me further down the adriatic coast to one of montenegro's national treasures — somewhere i've been keen to revisit since i last came almost 20 years ago. It's called sveti stefan. And isn't it superb? it's a isth—century village on a fortified island set into the sea. After the second world war, the whole island was turned into a state—owned hotel, with locals free to come and go as they pleased. Since 2007, it's been privately run as a super high—end resort enjoyed by people like robert de niro, brad pitt and the beckhams. Tennis star novak djokovic even got married there. But unless you can afford at least 800 euros a night for a room, the whole site is strictly off limits. Imagine the statue of liberty being only for the rich, or the eiffel tower, or the taj mahal. The funny thing is, this island is owned by the state. But in 2007, they leased it to a luxury hotel chain. I last came here in 2006 when montenegro was newly independent. And as i take my selfie stick along the causeway, i'm not seeing many changes at first. From the outside, it looks pretty much the same. What i have noticed, though, is looking back, that landscape has changed dramatically. There's a lot more buildings. There's high—end restaurants and shops. Oh, yes, i remember these gates. Huh? i think this is as far as we can go. It's chained up. But look at that courtyard. Super cute. The hotel also reserves some of the nicest nearby beaches for guests only. Queen's beach is totally off limits to the public. King's beach is accessible but only to those willing to pay the 200 euro daily fee for sunbeds. However, the hotel has been shut since 2021, which means, for the time being, the beaches are open to all. Dragana runs a guest house nearby and has been front and centre of a campaign to get the island reopened to the public. Two of my aunties are born on sveti stefan. They were born there?! yes. Their mother, danica, was a cook in sveti stefan. Many families here has members of their families who are born on sveti stefan. As you know, on the end of 19505, the families was moved out from their houses. And after few years, when sveti stefan started to work as a hotel, they come back to work on the island and to serve tourists in their own houses. But, you know, that was a period when they thought that they do something very important and good for the community, for the state, then yugoslavia. Now the grandsons and daughters cannot enter the island. Yeah. It's forbidden to just to enter and to. . . To see the island. The bell! yes. Church bell. Yes, church bells. That is the church alexander nevsky. After that is going church sveti stefan, arhidakon sveti stefan. Two churches. Can local people go to these churches? you know, it's, for us, allowed when it's some, um. . . . . Ceremonies. A few times in a year. And after the liturgy, we have to go back. Security is on the way. You have only one footpath. You cannot go left. You cannot go right. They'll show you how you can. . . And you go out. You know, we feel very bad. What do you hope for the future of sveti stefan? maybe government of montenegro can open the island, partly as a hotel, partly as a museum town that the tourists can come, can pay for the entrance, but they will have even one street, which will be going to talk the historical story to the tourists. The tourists know where they come, what is the meaning of the island, how huge a history the island has, and the people who used to live there. But there's one way you can get a pretty good view of the island, and for that, you'll need to take to the skies. Hopefully, we can get a bird's—eye view of sveti stefan. Seeing we can't access it for real, i'd like to see it from the top and get as close as i can. When we start, we should make a few steps forward. That moment, you'll pull the glider above head. 0k. When the glider be overhead, i will tell you, run! and we should keep running all the time until the edge. Just keep running. . . Yeah. . . Until it falls away? yeah. 0k. I see you're a very sporty girl. It is very easy. Oh, my god! whoa! look at this! it's amazing. Wow! i don't like the turbulence. Wow. Look, there's a swimming pool. Looks a bit murky. Wow. We can see the church! look at all these little villas. Isn't it beautiful? sveti stefan looks so amazing from up here. I can really see why they charge a pretty packet to stay there. You can also see the privacy it offers people. But in offering that at a premium, there's a cultural landmark lost, not just to montenegrins, but to all of us who want to come and see it. There we go. We landed on the beach at sveti stefan! can you believe it? the country's transforming, thanks in part to lots of new wealth arriving on its shores. But the people i've met here have blown me away with their affection for the old montenegro, quirks and all. They've got so much determination to make sure the things that make this place special aren't lost in the massive changes now under way. And you know what? i think they might just stand a chance. Hello there. Before we get to the weekend, friday brought some very big differences across the uk. We had sunny skies in western scotland, and in northern ireland, temperatures reached 27 degrees — the hottest it's been all year. It was quite a bit cooler here at the oval for the test match, where we struggled with bad light. Doesn't look quite so gloomy for saturday. Very misty, murky conditions, though, in bristol, where we've seen rain pushing in earlier on in the night and into south wales as well, with some thunderstorms, too. That's going to be clearing away later, and it's going to be quite a warm start to saturday, muggy as well. And because of that we've got extensive low clouds, some mist and some fog around for england and wales, so things may improve a little. It may cheer up a bit, but there may not be too much sunshine around — more cloud producing a few showers here and there. Looks dry for scotland, northern ireland, sunny for the most part, but that low cloud retreating back to the east coast of scotland keeping it cooler here. But in the sunshine in scotland, and northern ireland temperatures again into the mid 20s, and it may warm up where we get a bit of sunshine in east anglia, although not as warm as it was on friday. We've got this area of low pressure is going to bring some wetter weather overnight on saturday night, heavy rain and some thunderstorms, perhaps already arriving during the evening across these southern areas, and that rain will push its way northwards into england and wales. Drier for scotland and northern ireland, some clear spells, but also some mist and low cloud, again, filtering through the central belt of scotland and lingering along the east coast of scotland. But another quite warm start to sunday. But it comes with a lot of cloud, and we've got these showers, along with spells of rain affecting england and wales. Again, it could be heavy and thundery. A few showers popping up towards the southeast of scotland. Otherwise scotland, northern ireland, generally dry but more cloud around, so it's going to be quite a bit cooler, particularly so for northern ireland. If we get a bit of sunshine in the midlands across to lincolnshire, that could pop off a few thundery showers here. Now that area of low pressure is going to move away on monday, so it starts to turn drier, but then we change the wind direction. We're going to pick up more of a north westerly wind over the week ahead, and that will make it feel quite a bit cooler as well. Now, most of the wet weather next week will be more towards the north west of the uk this time — the drier weather in the southeast — but those temperatures are going to be lower, perhaps peaking at only 13 or 1a in belfast and edinburgh. Dozens of students are unaccounted for after a fire breaks out at a boarding school in central kenya, killing at least 17. And a new yorkjudge delays donald trump's sentencing in his hush money trial, until after the us presidential election. Hello. I'm sumi somaskanda. A 26—year—old turkish—american woman has been shot dead in the occupied west bank. Aysenur eygi was reportedly taking part in a protest againstjewish settlement expansion in the town of beita. Local palestinian media says she was shot by israeli troops, who reportedly fired live rounds, stun grenades and tear gas to disperse the demonstrators. The israel defence forces says it responded with fire toward a main instigator of violent activity, who hurled rocks at the forces and posed a threat to them in the beita area. Turkey has described her death as a murder carried out by the netanyahu government.