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When I got word of a Thai joint setting up shop inside an Indian grocery store in Longwood, I wrongly assumed that their Siamese dishes would be inflected with the same sort of Desi-friendly spicing you see in Hakka, or Indo-Chinese, cuisine. But Thai Halal Grill inside Apna Bazaar is straight-up Thai, and proudly so, thanks to chef-owner and Isaan native Supaluk Khan. She runs the eatery with her husband, Aga "Jimmy" Khan, a Trinidadian who makes his contribution through incendiary spicing. His homemade pepper sauces, from scotch bonnet to green chili and apple, accompany Supaluk's dishes.
Massaman curry ($10.95) was an expected find because the food here is certified halal, and massaman (a twisting of the term

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