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The Dangers of Surfing Big Waves and Brain Injuries
How often are surfers getting concussed.or worse?
Tom Dosland. Photo: Fred Pompermayer
Dashel Pierson
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At a remote surf spot in northern California, Shawn Dollar was in trouble. It was 2015 and Dollar was surfing alone. When a large set steamrolled his way, he stood on his board for a few feet of extra leverage, and dove beneath the whitewash. But, as he broke the surface, he went head-first into a shallow rock.
His neck was broken; his brain, scrambled.
“The real problem was, which I found out later, that all the concussions I had before added up, and this one was the straw that broke the camel’s back,” said Dollar, a two-time world record holder for biggest wave ever surfed (one at Maverick’s, another at Cortes Bank). “When I went up to the Amen Clinic, the results from the scans looked like I had played high school, college, and pro football. I had the brain of a pro football playe
SurfAid Clean Water Challenge Dares You to Shred for a Month
Ride 30 waves in 30 days to raise awareness and funds for clean water in SurfAid’s remote partner communities.
Photo: SurfAid
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We’re always told to pick our battles. The same can be said for our causes. Very few of us can realistically GoFundMe every non-profit that pops up on our social media feed or spend our days supporting every worthy foundation, as much as we’d like to. But any surfer who’s ever traveled to a developing nation to revel in its abundant wave resources has, at one point in their journey, come face to face with real poverty. And with real poverty comes real sickness and with real sickness comes real death.
For most of us, accessing clean, safe water is as simple as grabbing a cup from the cabinet. Yet billions of people – mostly in rural areas like those in SurfAid’s partner communities – still lack this basic service.
According to the most recent stats from the United Nations, one in three people do not have access to safe drinking water and two out of five people do not have a basic hand-washing facility. SurfAid is changing these odds and we need your help.
Monday, March 22 is World Water Day and SurfAid is launching the Clean Water Challenge. Catch 30 waves within 30 days and raise awareness by surfing for SurfAid. Registration is free, but a minimum fundraising goal of $500 is encouraged per surfer.
Day of the Decade? A Comparative Look at Three XXL Maverick s Swells
Here s where December 8th, 2020 lands, from the numbers
December 8th, 2020. Photo: Jeremiah Klein
Kevin Wallis
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There have been a lot of superlatives thrown at the session that went down at Maverick’s two weeks ago: Best Ever, Day of Days, All Time, etc. While it wasn’t the biggest swell at Mav’s by any means, it was amongst the largest paddle swells we’ve seen in the past decade with absolutely pristine conditions. This most recent swell was big enough to get the Maverick’s Outer Bowl working which starts to break when wave faces reach roughly 45-50 feet and guys like Grant ‘Twiggy’ Baker, Pete Mel, and Kai Lenny sat out the back to chip in on those glassy monsters before screaming through the normal takeoff spot.