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Clay Risen, The New York Times Published: 03 Jul 2021 11:24 AM BdST Updated: 03 Jul 2021 11:24 AM BdST Victoria Eady Butler, the master distiller, at Uncle Nearest in Shelbyville, Tenn, on June 4, 2021. Butler was named the blender of the year by Whisky Magazine. (Laura Partain/The New York Times) In 2018, the three founders of Milam & Greene, a distillery in Blanco, Texas, made their first trip to the San Antonio Cocktail Conference, one of the state’s largest gatherings of bartenders, distillers and their legions of fans. They were excited to introduce their new whiskey, until they found their assigned table stuck in a corner, far from the action.

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