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Monday 17 May 2021 A few years ago, as I sat overlooking the harbour in Sydney – I was living there and working at Time Out – an Italian chef, upon clocking my Glaswegian accent, looked at me and said, ‘Scotland? Great produce! But you don’t know what to do with it.’ This, I realised, feeling suddenly pale in the Australian sun, is the global reputation of Scottish cooking. Sure, our produce is world-renowned – salmon, shellfish, whisky – but there is little faith that we, as Scots, know what to do with our own bounty. Ethical Shellfish Company boat It is, of course, nonsense. The people have known how to cook with their country’s wares for millennia – culinary craft has been honed throughout historic invasions, waves of immigration and the spice laden kists of imperialism – but somehow so-called Scottish cuisine has left us with haggis and tatties, deep-fried fish (we don’t talk about the other deep-fried thing) and chicken Balmoral. Glasgow che ....
A squeeze of lemon on Bentley s lobster Fish stocks are not the only thing in the waters of the British Isles facing a sustainability crisis. The ban on live shellfish exports to the European Union threatens to devastate the UK fishing industry. The EU rules specifically apply to live bivalve molluscs such as mussels, oysters, scallops, cockles and clams. The industry is worth around £12m a year, which might be small fry to the UK economy as a whole but is of critical value to the communities who rely on the sea for their livelihoods. Fish exports overall have been hit hard by Brexit. Delays caused by red tape have forced the price of British fish and seafood to plummet as European buyers refuse to pay top dollar for produce that is not as fresh as they would wish. What’s more, with restaurants closed until at least the middle of April, a significant chunk of domestic sales has disappeared alongside the export market. One bright spot, though, is that the suppl ....