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De Martino Gallardia Cinsault Itata, Chile 2018, £14.95, The When we think of France and wine, we think of regions. We are comfortable generalising about Bordeaux, and comparing it to Burgundy or the Rhône, and wary of making sweeping statements about a monolithic ‘French wine’. The same is true of Italy and to a lesser extent Spain. But it’s a different story in South America. While most of us will have a generic idea of what to expect from the wines of Argentina or Chile, the identities of both countries’ vineyard areas are nothing like as well known as their European (or Australian and Californian) counterparts. That’s starting to change, however. In 21st-century Chile, the wine industry has made a priority of exploring and working out which areas of this long, slim country are best suited to which grape varieties, and regional identities are really starting to emerge. The cool southerly Itata Valley is one place to look out for: it has a real penchant for producing

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