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Glasgow businesses owners behind The Thornwood and Julie's Kopitiam to open Ga Ga restaurant on Dumbarton Road
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Julie Kopitiam THE most important story in local hospitality for the last 10 years has been small independent units enlivening neighbourhoods, drawing people into different areas of the city and providing a social focus for the community. Walking down Pollokshaws Road reveals a checklist of local success stories but also the ongoing challenges. While there is a focus of concern on the two-speed exit from lockdown, with Glasgow lagging behind the rest of the country, it is worth remembering that social distancing measures put some businesses with compact premises at a standstill. Efforts to share public space to provide more capacity has had mixed results – see Eusebi’s innovative outdoor seating solution leaving West End neighbours aghast.
Monday 17 May 2021
A few years ago, as I sat overlooking the harbour in Sydney – I was living there and working at Time Out – an Italian chef, upon clocking my Glaswegian accent, looked at me and said, ‘Scotland? Great produce! But you don’t know what to do with it.’ This, I realised, feeling suddenly pale in the Australian sun, is the global reputation of Scottish cooking. Sure, our produce is world-renowned – salmon, shellfish, whisky – but there is little faith that we, as Scots, know what to do with our own bounty.
Ethical Shellfish Company boat
It is, of course, nonsense. The people have known how to cook with their country’s wares for millennia – culinary craft has been honed throughout historic invasions, waves of immigration and the spice laden kists of imperialism – but somehow so-called Scottish cuisine has left us with haggis and tatties, deep-fried fish (we don’t talk about the other deep-fried thing) and chicken Balmoral. Glasgow chef Grant Reek
PJ Moore is very easy to talk to. We are gabbing away while wandering across from the Kelvingrove to the nearby Ronzio cafe to pick up takeaway teas. I’ve never met him before but we have a friend in common - Irish journalist Ken Sweeney. Ken made a radio documentary, In Search of The Blue Nile, about the musical journey of PJ, Robert Bell and Paul Buchanan. The recording was inspired by a trip Ken made to Glasgow, where he was keen to explore a cityscape that he had imagined through the albums he had listened to while growing up.
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