From the mosque in this dusty desert village, you can see the wide terraces and austere columns of one of Egypt's premier tourist destinations, the Temple of Hatshepsut, baking far in the distance. It's late August, and by noon the temperature is already 103 degrees Fahrenheit and heading well north of that, enough to drive even the most intrepid tourists who visit the site back to their motor coaches and hotels. But here in New Gourna there are no tourists, even though this village, placed on t
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