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This zippy, tart white wine is actually a red Pinot Noir in disguise This zippy, tart white wine is actually a red Pinot Noir in disguise Critic Esther Mobley recommends an unconventional white, which its winemaker describes as tasting like the lemon-cherry combo flavor of Italian Ice FacebookTwitterEmail The Waits-Mast Pinot Noir Blanc, from Anderson Valley.Esther Mobley / The Chronicle The wine is virtually colorless if you needed to assign it a hue, you might call it a pale flax. It smells like lemon juice, juniper berries and faintly of sea salt. The acidity is ripping, waking up your taste buds as it jolts across the sides of your tongue. ....