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Article content “If you’re going to cheat, cheat hard!” I replied. “Chicago deep dish style?” And so we ordered this month from Bar Lupulus, opting for the most indulgent of its over-the-top doughy options. My friend put his diet aside and took one for the team, while I girded myself for a three-pizza week, the kind of workload I take on so you won’t have to. Pre-pandemic, Bar Lupulus on Wellington Street West near Holland Avenue was a place I’d recommend for food that was as delicious as it was innovative and eye-catching, as well as its epic selection of craft beers and natural wines. Of course, in the last year it’s been rocked by lockdowns and capacity limits. This year, one of its pandemic pivots has been to offer chef Justin Champagne’s take on Chicago’s infamously hefty pizzas, which typically stack cheese, then meat, and then tomato sauce in their thick crusts, which more closely resembles a pie than a flatbread.

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