1. El Santuario de Chimayó
We arrived in Chimayó in the lull after Easter. Nestled in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the small hamlet lies about forty-five minutes north of Santa Fe. If I hadn’t seen videos of the great crowds that throng the sanctuary during Holy Week, I wouldn’t have believed this humble adobe church in the middle of nowhere could be the host of the largest number of religious pilgrims in the U.S but that is what it is.
Known as the “Lourdes of North America,” many come in search of a cure for as an old woman says, in Willa Cather’s 1927 novel
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Theodor
Pallady was born in Iasi in 1871. After the first years of schooling, he lived
in Bucharest (1886) as a pupil of the School of Bridges and Roads, and later in
Dresden, as a student of the Polytechnic in this city. In parallel with his
engineering studies, he took painting lessons with Ervin Oehme. He dedicated
himself to painting and, in 1889, went to Paris to study in Edmond Aman-Jean’s
studio. Later, starting in 1891, as a student at the School of Fine Arts in
Paris, he studied in the studio of Puvis de Chavannes, husband of Princess
Cantacuzino, the sister of the painter’s maternal grandfather. He had the
Some achieve distinction in one or possibly two branches of the world of art, but few, if any, are outstanding in all of them. Alan Bowness – art historian, curator and museum director, critic and journalist, and a collector himself – was just such a man, for all his personal modesty and quiet public profile. What drove him was his love for, and thirst for knowledge of, 19th- and 20th-century art – painting and sculpture especially. This allowed him to become one of the most effective proselytisers for contemporary art, which in Alan’s heyday was very much a minority, and some would say elitist interest. (As an educator, he no doubt thought that every individual, with self-willed effort, might join in the pleasures that all the arts bring.)