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I’ve come at the start of rainy season to see how this region, more famous as a winter getaway, will lure Australians to their own backyard.
I’m taking a one-way trip, arriving in Cairns, then heading north to Port Douglas along the Captain Cook Highway – known for being one of Australia’s prettiest stretches of road. The rest of the drive will run all the way south to Townsville, along a rainforested route called the Great Green Way.
Day 1: Cairns
Arriving in Cairns, my first stop is a new hotel called Flynn, which is bidding to transform Cairns from its cheap and cheerful backpacker image into an upmarket destination. ....

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