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The French Dispatch is bananas, and that’s what’s wonderful about it when it is wonderful, which isn’t all the time. Wes Anderson’s almost indescribable new movie is a takeoff of a spoof of a parody of a tribute of a salute. And when you peel back the layers of irony and whimsy, you might find that, unexpectedly, The French Dispatch is a surprising celebration of Middle American mid-century cultural enthusiasm and its triumph over old-style European pretension.