A smog has blanketed the sky, and the soil’s bounties have begun to dry out. Gone are brilliant neon-orange Indian mangoes, grass-green grapes meant for champagne, Greek lemon trees with their soft perfume. Scarcity has made palates incurious, leading to a nativist turn in national appetites: Think pallid plates of fish and chips in England, a country that once hummed with curry houses sitting along a vibrant Brick Lane. In this grim moment, a 29-year-old chef from the Los Angeles area is strand
In C Pam Zhang’s “Land of Milk and Honey,” a chef finds herself in an elite community for the superrich in the Italian Alps, one of the last places on Earth where crops still grow.