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Unusual grape varieties from less well-known places that have been used to dazzling effect ‘Like nothing else around’: wines from Istria in Croatia are satisfying and refreshing. Photograph: Getty Images ‘Like nothing else around’: wines from Istria in Croatia are satisfying and refreshing. Photograph: Getty Images Sun 21 Feb 2021 01.00 EST Kozlovic Teran, Istria, Croatia 2019 (£13.05, vinvm.co.uk) I’m a bit reluctant to talk about the “exotic” or the “off-the-beaten-track” in wine. As with their use in every other context, these terms rather assume that yours is the perspective that counts. Of course, the exotic isn’t exotic when you live there. And stories of deviating from the well-trodden path carry with them a whiff of the brave, possibly even pith-helmeted culinary explorer unveiling their supposedly weird and wonderful finds to the folks back home. Still, exploring the less-talked-about areas of the wine world has been a bit of preoccupa ....