caught between a rock and the sea, cabrese are notoriously tough. but this is a place where southern hospitality is a way of life. oh, my gosh. look at the size of those. you should open a restaurant. and in this poor region every meal is a celebration. oh, wow. looks like a million different flavors in there. calabria sits in the toe of the boot in italy separated from sicily in the south only by the narrow strait of mecina. it s a region of rugged landscapes, mountain ranges and 500 miles of coastline. it doesn t have that infrastructure, still a lot of abandoned buildings, a lot of poverty, a lot of corruption. it s really unfortunate because it is magnificent. like millions of calabrians, all four of my grandparents immigrated from this region with nothing but the clothes on their backs. so i m headed first to see the birthplace of my grandfather, the man who my father and i are named after. the town s population, 900 and happily i m being joined by two semi