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With a knowing smile, the waitress asks in broken English: ‘One more?’ We come to this bar, perched on a cliff edge, every afternoon, so she knows the answer.
Out come our Aperol cocktails with yet more appetisers. This time it’s purple Taggiasca olives and thick slabs of torte verde, a local pie of cheese, eggs and greens baked in a thin olive-oil crust and served for breakfast, lunch or as an afternoon snack.
Liguria, in north-west Italy, has long been overlooked by British tourists in favour of its glitzy neighbours; France’s glamorous Cote d’Azur to the west, and the pastel-coloured, hilltop towns of Cinque Terre to the east.
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