Food writing was evolving before COVID. It was becoming more inclusive, more environmental, less about food, and more about food’s people and implications. Then the pandemic struck, wrenching an already-changing game. The next months saw writing about openings, minor doings, and how things taste take a back seat to weightier issues at the foundations of food culture or shaking them — stories about adaptation, sustainability, deep foodways, and supply chains.
Here are our 10 favorites of the year, half picked by food critic Chris Malloy and half by editor Lauren Cusimano.
'Growing Up — Urban Farms Have the Potential to Transform Phoenix' By Chris Malloy