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Balconies in a house in front of the Capitolio. Havana (La Habana), Cuba “Whew! Did you see that?” We’re driving to Havana and Debbie, my wife, is speaking. I’m sitting in the front seat of our taxi with Luis, the driver, who has just been explaining to me how Raul Castro’s daughter Mariela is in favour of “homofobia.” I endeavour to correct him: “Don’t you mean she’s against homophobia?” but he, bent on re-educating an unenlightened foreigner, insists “no, in favour of.” Luis, who has the conversational tic of poking me whenever he wants to make a point, is pro-Fidel (“he wants to help the poor”), but “homofobia” is a long word and, for a generation raised on Marxist polysyllables, easy enough to confuse with its antonym. “In favour of homophobia.” Fist in my thigh, and his eyes meet mine, as he scrutinizes my face for moral outrage. The highway is empty in the four-hour drive from Trinidad, we can’t have seen more than ten vehicles. But now

United statesUnited kingdomIsla de la juventudCiudad libertadCiudad de la habanaMexico cityDistrito federalBellas artesSouth koreaNew yorkTrinidad and tobagoZabaykal skiy krayMiami beachGuillermo cabrera infanteGraham greeneMarco rubio